JES9800AAW Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

The process would have been easy except the wiring to the element had a problem. One wire was too short which meant pulling the entire stove assembly out to reroute the wire.The part worked fine; the problem was with initial wiring of stove.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

Remove cover and install

Just followed the installation instructions offered on this website. WAS REALLY EASY!

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once.
gc.

It was hard. I simply replaced the old one!! fIT PERFECTLY.
:-)

Nice filter. Exact fit. Had a little ring to use to pull out to clean. Shipment was packed well.

Changed out surface burner switch.Unscrewed two screws, changed plug onto new switch.Don't forget to turn off power!

1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off.
2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove.
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob.
4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the
corresponding terminal on new the switch.
6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.

I've ordered parts from you twice now, and both times the service has been absolutely amazing!!!!!

Now, on to how I did this without fire or electrocution:

Turned off breakers.
Grabbed a beer.
Removed two screws holding in plate.
Removed electrical connectors.
Removed two screws holding switch.
Put new switch in place with screws.
Reattached connectors.
Reseated plate & screws.
Turned on power & tested.
Finished beer and felt very manly.

The hardest part was getting the plate to re-seat.

Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.