JES9800AAB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Turn off power (at breaker panel). Pull out range from wall and unplug electrical cord from outlet. Remove retaining screw at each side of element. Slowly pull out element from back of oven to expose electrical connector. Use pliers to pull connector apart (do not pull on wire). With element disconnected, measure resistance between the two ends of the element. Found infinite resistance or open circuit. Ordered replacement part and measured new part to be 20 ohms. Installed new element by pushing on connectors to new element. Carefully push new element into oven back wall and secure with the 2 screws. Plug electrical connector into wall socket and push range back to the wall. Turn on breaker switch. Turn on oven to verify fix. Note: Confirm there is voltage on both legs of wall socket for 220 volts which will confirm the breaker at panel is functioning. This can be done before removal of element from the range.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

Simply remove the two screws in the back and carefully work the element out taking care not to pull the wires off. I left the oven door on which made access somewhat awkward reaching in. Remove wire clips and install new element in reverse. So easy even a caveman could do it.

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

unplugged the oven from the 220 volt receptacle. Removed the wire shelves. Unscrewed the two screws holding element to rear of oven. (I didn't know at this point to pull the wires through from the back so I took the back panel of the oven off and unplugged the connectors from the rear). Measured the defective element, ordered, and two days later I reversed the process when the package arrived in the mail. . quite simple. I love it when I can fix something myself. And by fixing, I actually mean "replacing".

Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.

followed you tube instructions. Very helpful feature. thanks

Remove both oven racks. Remove the screw that is on each side of the element holding it in. Pull the element out and disconnect the wire on each side of the element.Remove the bad element and replace it with the new element. Connect the wires to the new element and gently push the element back into place. Put the screws back into place and tighten. Replace the oven racks into oven. Turn oven onand verify that the element is heating. Repair is comlete.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.