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Broke the glass on our oven door due to cold water spilled while it was hot
First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together. When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
Turn off the power to the oven. (There should be a circuit breaker in the main power panel dedicated to just the oven) (the oven should be cool to the touch). Open and remove the door by pulling it up and off the hinges (this is best accomplished with a helper). Remove the racks (wire shelves). Remove the two 1/4" mounting screws that secure the heating element to the back and the two screws that secure the element to the top of the oven.. Gently pull the wires out and disconnect them from the heating element. Now reverse the process. Connect the wires to the new heating element in the same fashion as they came off. Push the wires and heating element back in place and secure with the four screws. Replace the wire racks (shelves). Replace the door (again, this is best accomplished with a helper). Turn the power back on. Run a test of the broiler to make sure the repair was completed properly. voila!
I removed the cooktop from the countertop and propped it up with 2 1x2's on each end. I removed the Torx screws that hold the glass in place. I set the glass aside. I then removed the screws holding the cover for the switches. I set the large central burner aside. I had to spray the screws holding the switch cover in place to loosen them. I then removed the defective left front switch and replaced the it with the GE Parts Select replacement switch. I then put everything back together. This Utube video was helpful although not my model number https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmcUqpHNj3Q
We had previously removed the bad element, which was initially confusing because the element plugs were so small and narrow compared to previous experience. After our local parts store couldn't seem to get the correct part in for us, we ordered the exact element here. It plugged in fairly easily, we screwed a few cover plates on, and slid the stove back into place. (and of course switched the appropriate electrical breaker off before replacing the element)
I ordered the wrong part, and your helpful staff directed me to call the manufacture for the part number (they even proved the tele number). The part was several dollars cheaper at your site. I now have all the knobs to use my stove!! thanks.
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.
The large front right burner of the radiant cooktop did not work
Turned off the power at the breaker. Then I lifted the cooktop by pressing up from the bottom, while my wife slid two boards over the recess. I lowered the cooktop onto the boards, removed 12 screws around the perimeter of the case and carefully lifted the glass top and placed it on a towel on the DR table. (remove the control knobs first) removed the wires leading to the infinite control, marking which color when where, removed the two screws holding the infinite control, and replaced the old with the new. Reattached the wires, replaced the cooktop, replaced the screws, held it up while my wife removed the boards and then carefully lowered the cooktop into the recess. Attached the knobs, flipped the breaker back on and turned control to hi. It worked!
Looked up model number. Searched internet, selected PartSelect web site. Looked up part number. Ordered part. Waited 7 days. Opened box. Installed knob
