Turned off gas, then lifted up the burner cover and removed the old valve using a screw driver to loosen the clamp. I also had to remove the face plate using a socket set (4 screws). I didn't align the valve using the existing valves as a guide and also didn't get the clamp tight enough. So I re-aligned the valve to match the other valves and also tighten the clamp enough as best I could to prevent gas from leaking.
The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem. I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation. Still need help. I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill. Can anyone there help me out, if so please call. Ike Stanton 678-525-6644
When this happens the plunger switch has to be replaced. This is a small plug like piece that has 4 plug in wires.
So you first unplug the range from the wall outlet. Then remove the oven door off the hinges ( see owners manual for removal ) then you take the right side panel off and there you will see the plunger switch. Before removing the old switch make sure you plug the new one in exactly like the old one. I laid the old one next to the new one and plug them in one at a time. Its a little tricky unplugging them . After a few tries I figured it out. You have to use your thumb and finger and press and pull up by where the wire plugs in. Before putting back together you may want to test the new switch. Plug range back in wall outlet push the black piece that sticks out from switch and if the oven light goes out its fixed. Unplug from wall while reassembling side panel and door. I can say this do it yourself saves a lot of money not having a repairman fix it.
One burner would not light from spark. All other burners lite with spark.
First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.
Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove. Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY
I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.
All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.
Just lifted old burner off with my fingers and replaced with the new one. What needs to be focused on here is the fact that Part Select has such a complete line of parts rather than the difficulty in the install.
GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.
Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.
At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor. Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.
