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The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires. Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.
This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.
anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!
When moving the range, the 220 wire popped off the terminal and arced melting the plastic terminal
I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.
It didn't get repaired. Put the existing screws into the cap and the screws chewed up the slot it was to go into. Destroyed the end caps L and R. Only fix appears to be an new stove.
a plug on the element broke off while cleaning and replacing
Absolutely no tools required for this task. Simply align the prongs to the female portion on the stove top. Carefully push in until the element is in place then line up with the drip pan slot. No instructions are necessary!!
The original bake element developed a short and burned out.
First step involved disconnecting the power cord from the outlet. Second step was removing the oven door from the range to facilitate removal/replacement of the element. No tools are required for the second step, just open door slightly, pull upwards, and the door detaches. Third step requires a screwdriver for removing 2 sheet screws that secures the element to the back of the oven. Finally, gently pull out old element a few inches and detach the electrical wire terminals from the element terminals. Just reverse the process for completion. Simply fix!
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.