JB905TH1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.

Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.

I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.

The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.

Ordered on Tues got part on Thurs used a nut driver removed 2 screws holding element in top of oven,then removed the 3 screws holding the element and thermostat to rear of oven pull about 3 inches of slack, removed the blade plugs from element placed them on the new element and assembled it. Took abou 30Min. Easier if you remove the oven door!

First we confirmed that the part delivered was the correct piece needed. We unscrewed the interior panel of the door and separated the insulation from the two pieces so the old glass frame could be removed. The rope type gasket gave us some trouble as it was difficult to stage the insulation, glass frame and rope at one time. Once we got the pieces in place it was a breeze to screw the panel back in just in time to make pies for our Thanksgiving dinner.

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place

First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.