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Bake Element snapped causing a fire in the Oven
I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.
shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.
Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.
Trim Ring - 8" didn't fit right and Drip Bowls were not cleanable any more
Replaced all the ordered parts, and straightened a bent "rest piece" (one of three) on the element os the large burner, which made it rest perfectly on the new Trim Ring. It doesn't easily fall down into the bowl now while I am using the burner. The new Bowls look so nice, and the stove looks nearly new!
I now know where to go for help when I need to repair appliances. You seem to have everything that could possibly be needed. Thank you!
1. Make sure electricity is off! 2. Remove 2 screws at rear of oven where the bake element is attached. 3. Pull out far enough to remove the 2 screws where the wires attach. 4. Lift out the old element and set the new one in. 5. Reattach the wires. 6. Reattach the element to the rear of the stove. 7. Turn electricity back on.
Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com
Simple repair that was complicated by not being able to remove the oven door, leaving a long reach to the element connections in the back of the oven. Other than the accessibility issue, the repair is easy. Remove two scews, pull the element out about 3 inches to access and unscrew the screws holding the wires to the element. Then reverse the process with the new element. But, because of the long reach, there were alot of dropped screws and cussing.
Partselect made this job a breeze. Due to the user friendly process to order and receive the part. I repaired the stove after turning off the breaker in the main box. There were two screws that held the baking unit in place, removed them and then replaced with new unit.
Easiest thing I've done. Shut off breaker. Unplug range. Pull out from wall (because this is a good time to remove the back, clean under and around the unit, check out the insulation and electrical contacts....or skip it, whatever). Open oven. Remove door (while ajar, pull up). Remove racks. Unscrew mounting plate from back interior wall. Set screws aside. Gently pull element forward until the leads and wires come through the insulation. Remove any strands of insulation that stuck to the leads and connectors. Unscrew leads. Keep left wire to the left and right wire to the right. DO NOT CROSS. Set screws aside. Discard old element. (This is a good time to clean your oven, if you haven't in a while.) If you cleaned oven, wait until dry. Position new element, feet down, in bottom of oven. Position left wire on left connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND LEAD. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Position right wire on right connector. Screw tightly BUT DO NOT BEND. IF YOU BEND IT, THEN DO NOT BEND IT BACK. CALL A PROFESSIONAL. Do not leave screws loose. Connection must be tight. Fire hazard, otherwise. If you bent nothing, then gently push element back through insulation until mounting plate is flush. Screw into position. Replace racks. Replace door. If you decide to check insulation and other leads, now is the time. I checked mine and it's a good thing I did.... Unscrew back plate of oven, keeping screws in order. Remove plate. Check that your new element and insulation aren't bunched up or otherwise in a hazardous state. You may notice burned or greasy insulation. You may see burned leads on light receptacle and broil element. If you do, then replace them, too. When finished with everything, replace back plate. Put range back into position, ensuring level and plumb. Plug in. Turn on breaker. Pat yourself on the back. You just saved $100-$250, depending on where you live.
Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.
Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.
Two of the knobs fit perfectly.
The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.
First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other side. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.
I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.
BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!
