JB250RF3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Turned off circuit breaker to range.
Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed.
The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved.
Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals.
Reinstalled new element and metal backing.
Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place.
Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet.
Reinstalled drawer and racks.
Turned on circuit breaker.
Tested element by setting bake cycle on.

After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.

removed the oven racks. used a 6.5 mm socket to take out two bolts. pulled out old element and wires through insulation into oven. i used caution during this part i didn't want the wires to disconnect and fall into the oven. once the wires and element was pulled out approximately 3 inches. i used two magnet clips that hold papers onto the refrigerator and clipped both wires so they wouldn't go back into the stove. disconnected the element from the wires and connected the new element to the wires. pushed wires into the back of the oven and tightened the two 6.5 mm bolt. done in 10 minutes. turned oven on to 400 degrees and let same pre heat. a little smoke will come from the new element which is normal. works fine now.

After I got the right part(I ordered the wrong one at first, my fault) it was simple to remove the old element, 2 screws and push on termilnals, and replace with perfectly fitting new part. Word of caution, turn off the breaker to stove. I found that the element line is hot even if the control is off!

I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.

I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

first slide out range from wall and unplug it. then remove the rear panel, it is about 6 or 8 1/4" screws. remove the selector knob on the front of range and then remove the two philips head screws. this is how you remove the burner controller. hold the new controller next to the od one and one by one take the wires off the old one and put them on the new one. re-assemble and you are good to go.

1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.

The known problem: a short occured between the surface element and the INF switch. After replacing the wire between the surface element and INF switch. The surface indicator light remained on - indicating a power surge/spike. Prior to removing the old INF switch I disconnected the wires from the old switch one at a time and plugged each into the new switch terminals. Then I removed the knob from the front of the control panel and the 2 screws holding the old INF switch in place. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new switch. Reinstalling the 2 screws and the knob. Surface indicator light was no longer illuminated and surface element works fine.

Unplugged unit. Removed racks from oven. Removed screws from bracket holding element in. Carefully pulled element forward until the wire connections were exposed. Removed wires taking care not to let them retract into the oven. Removed element from oven. Placed new element in oven. Connected wires to element. Replaced screws to hold element in. Replaced racks. Plugged in oven. Turned on to see if working.

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.