HMV24CEWABB General Electric Range - Instructions

This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.

I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.

Although the parts did fit, some modification was needed to remove the excess tabs as it appears these parts were for multiple applications. However the end result was a good fit and reapirs were successful.

I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

1. Removed oven door.
2. Removed shelves.
3. Removed oven bottom.
4. Removed pan drawer.
5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening.
6. Removed top burner nut.
7. Pulled igniter out from top.
8. Snipped igniter wires.
9. Removed igniter from burner
10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts.
11. Attached new igniter to burner.
12. Replaced burner.
13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer.
14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer.
15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner
16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

removed both screws from old slides and replaced with new ones

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in position underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.

Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.

Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!