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Oven wouldn't heat after a cleaning cycle
Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.
I went online to read the instruction. Started doing it and was done in less than 30minutes. It was easy and the replacement part was inexpensive and got shipped in really fast. I probably would have spent hundreds of dollars if i called a handy man to repair it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Bake element was broken. Oven would not shut down.
I used a cordless screwdriver to remove the retaing screws. One of the connections was pucshed back too far and was almost hidden in the hole. I used the tweezers to pull it out, replace the bake lelement and the retaining screws. I'm good to go!
the 2500 watts element-surf was opened (wasn't heating)
1 Turn the circuit breaker that feds power to the range/stove off 2 Opened the oven door and found two screws that hold the top part of the range. I removed the screws and disconnected the green cable (ground) so I could have access to the Element-surt 3 Disconnected the four wires that connects the Element and removed the braket that holds it. 4 Replaced the new element, connected the wires and attached the braket. 5 Connected the ground (green cable) and place the top back on place (screwed the top from inside the oven). 6 turned the power on
Just removed two screws that held the top brackets on, and cleaned out the old broken glass. When the part came it, installed the two top brackets to the glass and then slide the glass into the two bottom brackets and screwed the top brackets in place. Whole job took about 20 minutes.
bought floor model with loose cord that melted block terminal
Safety first always shut breaker off at box. I unplugged stove, disconnected wires keeping in mind the color placement. Unscrewed one ground screw and removed terminal block. Attached new block with ground screw, replaced wires in correct order, re-attached plug. Then reattached safety cover. Pretty simple for d.i.y.
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop 2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet. 3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface. 4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached. 5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity. 6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side. 7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together. 8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150. Tom in Steinhatchee
First discount Ac from wall, then take out 2 screws on the front of the range top and lift up the top of the range surface, then while holding up the surface top take out the front burner and replaced new burner element.Let the surface top down and screw in the two screws. the surface top of the range is hinged so it would be good to have someone to hold the top up while you replace the element or use a piece of wood to hold it up,this is a piece of cake to repair. would like to thank parts select for their service. I have ordered from them before and they back up their products Robert
It was relatively "easy" at age 74. Needed phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers (not nut driver). Put 2 binder clips on connection wires so they would not fall back behind oven. Figure I saved about $100-$200 for less than 30 minutes work.
Over heating oven and uneven baking. Oven thought it was in self cleaning mode.
Sensor replacement was removing 2 screws and gently pulling on old sensor until the clip comes out. Secured the other end of the wires so that it did not fall back inside. Then connected the new sensor clip to the oven wire, then gently returning wire into oven, and then screwing the sensor into place. The baking element was easier than the sensor. Removed the 2 screws holding the element into the back bottom of the oven, and pulled the element forward to disconnect from clamps. Inserted new element into clamps and screwed it in. ***NOTE that there will be a smell from the new element. This smell is normal. If the smell continues after a couple minutes stop the oven and wait an hour before reattempting.
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
Upper oven bake and broil elements fail to heat when keypad entries made and indicating correctly
Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.
With little reluctance..I decided to change the part myself..but was very satisfied...with two screws to detach the bake oven and install the new one.I was very happy to receive the replacement part within 24 hours of placing the order with Part select.
I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BTW - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.