GTK17GCEDRBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed two srews from the back panel inside fthe reezer compartment and the two that hold the air manifold/baffle? and pulled the baffle out. Then, I removed the two srews that hold the front part of the fan bracket behind the baffle and the back panel came out easily. Two more screws and one quick connect plug attached to the fan and I was done with removal. Insallation was even quicker, I slid the original fan right off the old motor and slid it on the new motor's shaft. Piece of cake! Thanks Partselect.

the repair was really easy!!! took longer to put the little clip on the fan part than it was to install the whole moter and put everthing back together

save money do it yourself.....

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.

I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.

After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. Locate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!

used a screwdriver to remove screw and unplugged part. Plugged in new one and secured with a screw.
Simple

Removed the crisper drawers, then the glass top shelf insert, then cleaned the area before sliding in the new cover and then replacing the crisper drawers and the glass top insert.

Unplug refrigerator.Remove the floor of the freezer box by removing the 4 philips head screws. Remove the cover over the fan by pulling it straight up and out. Remove the styrafoam duct by pulling it straight up and out. Remove the back wall of the freezer by removing the 4 philips head screws. Unplug fan. Remove the fan, bracket and all, by removing the two philips head screws on the back wall. Take the two halves of the bracket appart by removing the two hex head scews on the back of the bracket. Remove the "O" ring from the fan blade and remove the blade. There is a rubber grommet on both the front and back halves of the bracket. Make sure they are set properly in the brackets to secure and position the motor properly so the fan blade doesn't hit anything when it spins. Install the new motor onto the bracket the same way you took the old one off. Check the positions of the brackets, rubber grommets and motor to make sure they're properly installed and secure. Replace the "O" ring onto the fan blade and install it onto the new motor with a firm push on the center of the blade. Install the brackets and fan onto the back wall and plug in the new motor. Reinstall the back wall of the freezer box and make sure the motor is secure. Plug the refrigerator back in and check to make sure the fan blade doesn't hit anything while it's turning. Finish reassembling the freezer box.

easy fix... good price fast shipping, thanks

Took off the back panel 4 screws, 2 screws on fan motar ,unpluged fan and replaced fan motor ,Hardest part of the whole job was setting the fan blade ,easy to push on but becarefull not to push it on to far.check distance on old fan before you take the blade off.

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

Followed instructions per video and took roughly 45mins. Super easy and saved you time from having to hire someone and money. Highly recommend do it yourself.

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.