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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
When I did the repair,fortunate for me, a nice repairman was fixing my dishwasher. He said to put the new gasket in the dryer, while I removed the old one, to make it pliable and aid in sealing. I pulled the old gasket out of the retainer clip, cleaned around the area and snapped the new gasket into place(push the raised part into the groove). The repairman said that food residue, especially at the bottom, caused a sticky glue-like film to form. He also advised to put smear vaseline on the new gasket and wipe it off to leave a film. This would aid in sealing and keeping new the gasket from sticking.
Freezer cold, but Refrigerator not cooling. Iced up coils.
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part. 1. Remove ice maker if installed. 2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed. 3. Locate and remove two screws on upper back wall. 4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system. 5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer... 6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires. 7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces. 8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold. 9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings. 10. Enjoy!
Unplugged refrigerator.Checked that new gasket was the right size for freezer.Opened freezer door and lifted inside edge to access screw's. Loosened top screw's and screw's half way down each side and pulled gasket out. Installed new gasket into slot where old gasket was and tightened screw's across top and the first couple down side's.Lifted edge of old gasket and loosened screw's holding remainder of old gasket in place and finished removing old gasket.Finished putting new gasket in slot and tightened remaining screw's. The reason for only doing gasket half at a time is to keep the door square and not getting out of shape. If new gasket is warped when removed from shiping box run under hot water or soak in hot water until more flexible.
No instructions came with new parts. Access to element was impossible until I accidentally discovered that the two styrofoam cushions at the ends of the coils were removable. Once removed, access to the heater and thermostat was very easy.
Unplug appliance, remove freezer shelf, cold air ducts, back of freezer, disconnect light, (My model does not have ice maker. This may also need to be disconnected.) 1.Remove styrofoam cushions at end of coils 2.Locate element between bottom two coils 3.Disconnect the male/female connections 4.Remove support clip under center of element 5.Remove element 6.Replace new element in reverse
Connecting the thermostat wires was challenging because they were somewhat behind the coils.
1.With styrofoam removed, unclip thermostat from coil 2.Carefully cut wires (leave enough to connect new wires) 3.Connect new thermostat wires (color of wires matched on my fridge) 4.Clip new thermostat in place 5.Replace styrofoam 6.Button it all up
With these steps, this job would take maybe 30 minutes; somewhat longer if your model has an icemaker.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.
At this time of the year our beach fridge is always full of food and drinks. Every time we want something it meant leaving the door open for extended time whlie moving things left, right and center. When the new shelf arrived I removed the food and drinks from the existing two shelves and moved them closer together. I then slipped in the new shelf and reloaded the food. Suffice to say the fridge stays open less and we are able to get at things without moving others. I wish I had thought to do this before.
Unplugged frige, removed top shelf, pulled broken fan blade off. Replaced with fan blade just purchased from PartSelect. Very simple repair. Orderd and recieved the right part.
I had lost the bottom hinge during a move and so I rigged the hinge using an old tv antenna and the door never really quite worked right and it was VERY annoying. I stumbled upon this site and was surprised how inexpensive the part I needed was. I was very impressed with the speed of shipping and the install took maybe 5 minutes. The fridge works as good as new. Thanks a ton!
