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GTG15FBMCRWW
GTG15FBMCRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the GTG15FBMCRWW
[Viewing 3 of 3]
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Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left or Right Side
PartSelect #: PS298977
Manufacturer #: WR2X8345
This end cap is sold individually. It can be used for the right or left side of either the freezer or refrigerator door shelves.
$31.02
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$11.59
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS299579
Manufacturer #: WR2X9162
This is a replacement shelf bar end cap. The end cap connects to the shelf bar on either side, and then snaps into position on the freezer door. This will allow you to store items in the freezer door....
$22.26
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket - White
PartSelect #: PS2359946
Manufacturer #: WR24X10231
This fresh food door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
$178.12
In Stock
Door Hinge Nylon Washer
PartSelect #: PS12344581
Manufacturer #: WR01X27364
This is the replacement hinge washer for your refrigerator. The hinge washer is mounted on the top of the door hinge pin, and supports the refrigerator door, allowing it to open and close easily. The ...
$9.47
In Stock
Lower Crisper Drawer - Clear
PartSelect #: PS652085
Manufacturer #: WR32X10340
This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 17 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 9 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cri...
$76.11
In Stock
Stationary Wire Shelf
PartSelect #: PS305409
Manufacturer #: WR71X10378
This part is the replacement stationary wire shelf for your refrigerator. It is white in color and is approximately 24 1/2 inches by 14 3/8 inches. The stationary wire shelf rests on grooves in the re...
$221.04
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS1020128
Manufacturer #: WR01X10590
This refrigerator door handle mounting screw connects your refrigerator door to the handle. The part is less than 1 inch in length, and can come in both silver and gold colors. When installing this sc...
$8.06
In Stock
Freezer Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS2364915
Manufacturer #: WR24X10228
This white door gasket is used to seal the freezer door when closed.
$83.42
In Stock
Fresh Food Door Handle - White
PartSelect #: PS288966
Manufacturer #: WR12X10107
Handle only.
$27.28
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GTG15FBMCRWW
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Common Symptoms of the GTG15FBMCRWW
[Viewing 10 of 10]Light not working
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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Will Not Start
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Clicking sound
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
117 of 145 people
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Door gasket was torn at bottom from food residue
When I did the repair,fortunate for me, a nice repairman was fixing my dishwasher. He said to put the new gasket in the dryer, while I removed the old one, to make it pliable and aid in sealing. I pulled the old gasket out of the retainer clip, cleaned around the area and snapped the new gasket into place(push the raised part into the g
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roove). The repairman said that food residue, especially at the bottom, caused a sticky glue-like film to form. He also advised to put smear vaseline on the new gasket and wipe it off to leave a film. This would aid in sealing and keeping new the gasket from sticking.
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Parts Used:
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Jerry from Whitewright, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
92 of 112 people
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Freezer cold, but Refrigerator not cooling. Iced up coils.
After determining that it was the defrost system, I ordered the thermostat. Make sure you look closely. Mine had two thermostats, and so I had to wait a couple of days for the extra part.
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. L ... Read more ocate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!
1. Remove ice maker if installed.
2. Remove center casing on ceiling and back wall. There may be two screws that need removed.
3. L ... Read more ocate and remove two screws on upper back wall.
4. Remove back wall carefully, revealing coil system.
5. If this was the problem, the coils will be iced over and need thawed. Either time or a hair dryer...
6. The thermostats clip onto the copper tubing, simply pull them off, keeping close attention to the color of the wires.
7. Be very careful touching the bottom of the coils as the defrost conductor coils are along the bottom and encased in easily breakable glass. If you need to replace this as well, remove the center brace (wire)by pulling towards you and then down. remove wire attachments at both ends and rotate coil out of end braces.
8. Replacing thermostats...you must CUT the wires, and attach new thermostats with wire couplers or wire nuts and then wrap with electrical tape that is rated for the cold.
9. Re-attach all parts and replace back wall and coverings.
10. Enjoy!
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Parts Used:
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Scott from Pratt, KS
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
76 of 92 people
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