GSS20IETAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

Hardest part was removing the escutcheon around the ice maker on the door. Used a putty knife to find first clip pullout than the rest was easy. Disconnecting plugs from circuit board not as easy as looks, broke one locking clip have to be more careful when lifting the small clips. Once done than removed plastic casing and and easily removed the flapper and replaced with new one. Since I didn't know what I would encounter I ordered a spring and the arm that holds the flapper. I pre- assembled the parts and had it ready to install once I removed the defective part. Whole job under ten minutes...GE service starts at $99.95 just to come and look at it, than parts and labor after that I saved at least $100 dollars. Very easy fix.

Performed repair per the PartSelect on-linevideo. Some posters had said the solenoid could be rusted, so I had ordered one. Turned out to be fine, and I have returned it. I much appreciated the hint from another poster, that it was no longer necessary to pry the escutcheon off the door, and merely pressing inside the outer 2 holes on the bottom of the control panel would suffice. I encountered no complications. Frist problem is gone.

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.

Need an additional part to complete the job as the new auger is held to the ice crushing blades by a coupling. The new auger screws onto the blades. So I need a new ice crushing blade assembly. To complete the job.

Turned power off at breaker. Took off front panel on the door. Unscrewed the panel where the electrical parts were plugged in. Then you could unscrew the old solenoid assembly and install the new one. Cleaned around the Ice shute since some mold was there. Put all back together. We watched the video from you tube about 5 times!!

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.

Followed the Parts Select video step-by-step. It was exactly as the video described and took about 5 minutes (though I already had the cover off). Almost a week later and the refrigerator is running fine.

I replace defroste thermostat :i defrost al the ice

The instruction sheet (2-pages) supplied with the main control board were simple to follow. I removed the cover in back, carefully unplugged all the cable connectors, unscrewed the green ground wire, and lightly pinched the four white mounting pins with my fingers to release the old board. I then snapped the new board onto the four white pins, plugged all the cables back in, attached the ground wire under the closest available screw, and closed it up. I did not need to cut any wires. Plugged the refrigerator in and it's been running fine all day. The whole job took less than 10 minutes.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove frozen food, shelving, light and back panel inside the freezer section to expose the cooling coils. The coils were completely iced over. Using a wet dry vacuum to discharge the air toward the coils quickly melted the ice. The trouble shooting section on your website described my problem and I bought both items which were the most common problem. Using the video(s) e-mailed to me when purchasing the parts provided great information regarding details for the repair. After replacing both parts the refrigerator is working great having spent just under $25.00.

Removed the trim around the entire opening. Be very careful. The trim is held in place with 4 pressure "prongs" on each side and 2 at the top which can easily break (I broke 4 of the 10 not knowing this). Two are 1/2" from the top and bottom, the other two are at about 1/3 from the top and bottom. There is a slot on either side under the bottom of the trim. Insert a screw driver in one and carefully pry the side up enough to slide a knife or putty knife under the trim and press the first "prong" to release the trim. Release the remaining three, then the 2 at the top. The trim should come off then, but if not you may have to release the 4 on the other side.

Next remove the control module which is also held in place by 2 prongs on the bottom. Insert a long screw driver behind the module to release the prongs and release the module. Alternatively, press down on the top side very carefully to avoid breaking the plastic until it releases. Remove the electrical sockets from the circuit board to get the board out of the way. I could not get the larger one to release so I taped a folded paper towel over the circuit board to avoid shocking or damaging the board as it hung there while I did the rest of the work.

Remove the 4 screws holding the ice funnel unit. Remove the unit and release the tension on the spring ASAP because the plastic “plate” above it that helps hold it in place is thin and fragile. (The corner of the plastic plate cracked and bent upward on mine so that I feared it was going to break off altogether when I put the tension back on the spring. So, I laid a 4" metal strap over it and secured it with 5 large paper clips to stabilize it. So far it is working.)

Remove the old funnel and install the new one.

Reassemble everything.