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Upper rack kept dropping from the wheels when we pulled it out
We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.
The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.
Turn off power and water from dishwasher. Remove Base Access Panel. Remove the upper 2 screws that holds the dishwasher in place. Pull out dishwasher. Locate the valve and remove the 2 screws holding the mounting bracket. (I used a hex Nutdriver to remove the screws) Remove the valve. Disconnect the wire connector. Disconnect water supply. (Place a towel to catch the water) Loosen the hose clamp holding the inlet hose and remove the hose. (I used pliers to loosen the clamp) Remove the elbow from the old valve and reattach to the new valve. (Use teflon tape around the threads) Reverse the Process. Check for leaks. Piece of Cake. Part was an exact fit.
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
The video was extremely helpful. Removing the tabs was easy. However, we struggled with the re-insertion. They did not "snap" back in as easily as seen on video. We ended up using a pair of pliers to push pieces into slot. We did not use very much pressure for fear of breaking the plastic. However, after many tries, we were successful & it works perfectly. Perhaps a close-up of the "snapping in" part might help future installers.
