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Motor failure because of black power wire separation.
Dishwasher had flooded. Removed Dishwasher from cabinet and diagnosed problem. Found "PartSelect" on Internet and found Part kit available at reasonable price, in stock to ship immediately. Part #PS260801 [WD26x10013] contained enough parts to make installation easy and also I was able to cure discovery of slit in drain hose that attached to dishwasher drain outlet because kit included a short piece of hose and a hose clamp that allowed hose that had been trimmed to connect to outlet.
Too easy- what made it easier was this is a portable roll-around unit I could lay on it's back. Loosen the two clamps around the washer pump, hook up the drain solenoid, washer motor wires, attach the motor hanger, that's basically it. It took longer to make sure I was working from the right set of instructions- this pump covers several models. Once I had that right, it was really a snap. Now the unit is so quiet. It once sounded like a jet engine in the kitchen, now it runs so quiet you can hear the water splashing around inside- a big improvement. We should be able to hang onto this thing for a while longer.
In replacing the upper rack in our dishwasher, I struggled and broke one of the end caps (see previous tale of woe. With the new end caps, I finished the job in less than two minutes with no tools. BUY END CAPS when you order a rack!
I watched and read what other people did with the same problem and bought the part they did and installed the part which was real easy and the dishwasher works great.thank you to everyone that left information.
Dishwasher had become noisier & noisier in last year during wash & rinse cycles. After looking at various web sites, decided to first pull motor/pump & try cleaning it out. That made no difference. Also looked for anything loose that could cause vibration. No change in operation. Decided to go for replacing motor/pump & found Part Select had best price. Part came next day! I was amazed! Looked at video, then removed old unit and attached new one. Easy because it was exactly same connections. Ran dishwasher and it sounded 100% quieter - like when new! Very happy!!
At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.
Dishwasher was making lots of noise, and specifically rattling
The repair went really smoothly, I found a video on youtube for how to remove the dishwasher, and the video on the parts page did a great job covering replacing the motor. The repair went really well. As others have noted, it ran really nosily the 1st time, and a little the 2nd. After that, it ran quieter, and stronger than it has in the 4 years we have owned the house.
Remove lower rack from dishwasher to provide easy access to spray arm/hub assembly. Removed hub/spray arm assembly from base of dishwasher by unscrewing it from the base of the dishwasher. You should be able to do this by hand. Then unscrew the upper spray arm from the hub. This is the telescoping tube that pops up from the center, and it is reverse threaded, so loosen it like you're tightening it.Remove the Phillips head screw holding the spray arm to the old hub. Transfer the upper spray arm assembly to the new hub. Screw the whole assembly back on the threaded connection it came off of. Hand tighten only.
This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.
The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.
Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Water leak from gate (diverter) valve
Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.
Incomplete cleaning / standing water / drain failure
There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.
Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.
