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Dishwasher not draining
Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.
Actually, the problem started with a Timer Motor failure, and that let the dishwasher run for 4 hours (doh!). Immediately, I tested and ordered the timer, which unfortunately didn't come as just a motor, it came as an assembly. I installed it, and the dishwasher ran the cycle just fine.
Except it didn't drain.
After poking around, I noticed the drain solenoid had apparently been overworked; the timer must have failed on DRAIN. The solenoid was severely overheated, and thankfully didn't cause a fire, but it was somewhat melted. Replaced the solenoid, and all is well, especially when my wife was eyeballing a $1000 Bosch!
Water leaking from the bottom center of the front door
The lower right and left tub baffles just slip in, no tools required. For the front door gasket; a) removed the backside of the front door by removing the door screws. You need to manipulate the front door latch to remove the panel. b) remove the existing gasket, replace with new gasket. The short 4" gasket was missing, which is why it was leaking in the first place. Replaced it with the new one. Reassembled and tested. Thanks to Parts-Select for a great experience, very well done site.
I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.
I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.
This is a great website. I ordered my part on Wednesday night and it arrived Saturday morning without paying any extra for shipping. Plus since I am a female, this website enabled me to easily and affordably make the repair myself without having to worry about a repair man trying to take advantage of someone that they think they can.
I first made sure that there was nothing stuck in the drain area inside of the dishwasher. That meant I had to bail out all the standing water and then unscrew the mesh cover from the bottom. Since there was nothing in there I ordered a new solenoid.
First I unplugged the dishwasher. Then I removed the screws with a screwdriver that held the bottom cover on the dishwasher. Once I could see the installed solenoid, I put together the pieces of the replacement solenoid that I bought so I was sure to install the new one correctly. That did not require any tools. Then I unscrewed the two screws that held the solenoid in place and removed the little metal ring from the shaft which was the last piece holding it in place. Getting that ring off was tricky. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to pull it off. After that I put the new part on and screwed it in with the two screws provided. The little metal ring went on much easier than the old one came off. I screwed the bottom cover back on and voila! my dishwasher was fixed.
Dishes were coming out with nasty film and chunks - gross!
Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.
dishwasher was not draining left water in bottom of machine the drain solenoid was melted.
First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.
first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly. Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.
Remove old left and right corner tub baffles, make certain area where the new baffles are to be inserted is clean and free of any debris. Gently press new baffles in to each corner. Remove old gasket insert and replace with new. Tell wife the job was a three hour ordeal that require advanced skills to complete!
I replaced the top filler tube. (The $65 price for the filler tube is outrageous. Glad I didn't have a service man fix it. With mark-up it would have cost me over $100 for a 3 foot plastic tube. Crazy!)
While I was add it, I replaced the corner tub baffles.
The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the gaskets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!
leaking selenoid told repair cost would exceed replacement cost
Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.