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Replace Bad Switch
Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place
Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.
Switch was not working after a repairman had fixed something else
Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.
Internal light did not come on each time the door was opened.
After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.
Used screw driver to pop out old switch. Used pliers to hold wire connection from fall back into slot on fridge. Inserted new swith into plug and pressed new switch back in place.
First we ordered a new solenoid. . . The little piece that opens and closes whenever you push the button to dispense ice. That definitely needed to be replaced, and it was easy to do. However, that didn't fix the problem, so we looked and looked at the assembly and decided that a spring was missing. We ordered the spring, and when it arrived, we found that it matched exactly one that was already on the assembly. :-) Not the problem. Thirty minutes later we figured it out,. The diagrams at part select were not helpful with this. It was a matter of figuring out how the magnetic weight fit into the assembly. That's all it was! Now we have an extra spring for the future.
My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
Ice maker auger wouldn't rotate, motor worked fine
To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.
Ice Stripper was broke off, leaving the mounting tabs still inside their respected spaces in the ice-maker
Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.
Called a serviceman. The Air return cover is NOT the cover we replaced. Ours is 3/4 of the way down on the freezer side of fridge. Put a thermometer inside, to monitor it.
Light Switch Was Faulty--Failed A Few Months After Purchase Of The Refrigerator
I had several times tried to get the old switch out but with no success. Ordered the "repair kit" and followed directions for removing old switch (there is a plastic spring clip on one side). Easy to unplug the old switch, plug the leads into the new one, snap the new one into place. Took about 5 minutes total--piece of cake. I wish I'd thought to try this years ago when the old switch began to fail.
Had to completely remove the ice maker in order to install the replacement part
Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.
I took everything out of the door of the fridge and then unscrewed the bracket on the top of the door holding it to the fridge. Once all 3 screws were out I picked up on the door to remove it from the lower brackets that was holding it on the bottom of the fridge. I then placed the door on two bar stools to take the hinge pin and door closer off. Once they were unbolted and the new ones installed. I put the door back resting on the lower bracket as it was when I pulled it off. I then screwed one screw on the top bracket to hold the door and lined it up evenly and put the other two screws in and tightened them down. Everything was really easy to change and the door closes perfectly.
