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Small front burner on our glass top stove died.
Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.
Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim. Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
inner coil of burner no good..supposed to last forever!??
Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!
The center element of the 2-stage electric burner failed.
The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
It didn't get repaired. Put the existing screws into the cap and the screws chewed up the slot it was to go into. Destroyed the end caps L and R. Only fix appears to be an new stove.
Unscrew the metal rim and remove the glass window. Remove the old bulb by twesting the bulb towards you. Place the new bulb's pins into the slots and twest away from you. Place the metal rims back in place and screw them down.
Repair was slow, due to replacement part was incorrect. Original part had two spring loaded spacers, & holes for them to sit in. The replacement part did not have holes. I was able to drill two holes to make it work.
Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.
lift stove top, 2 undermount screws. Then unplug 4 wires, I did them 1 at a time plugging into new burner as I go so I wouldn't screw up. Take 2 screws out of old burner to stove top, # all around circle put screws in same # on new burner.Done Good experience all the way around. Order delivery and install
