GR488LXRS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

We removed the door from oven assembly and laying it flat on the bench removed the stainless steel cover from the rest of the door. Removing the shattered pieces of safety glass was done heating and scraping off vinyl tape.(difficult.)Caution! Do not allow any pieces of glass get under the stainless steel cover, it will leave ugly scratches! We purchased double sided vinyl tape 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick and aluminum "Flue tape" (600 deg. F) 1 1/2" wide from local hardware store to replace the original ones in their previous location. Fitting the new glass on sticky tape has to be done accurately. (no problem). Assembling it was little tricky but still within the ability of a do-it-selfers. We wondered if we should not put the rough side of the glass facing in or out. The original was with the smooth side out so that what we did. If any additional scraping of accumulated grease is needed especially on the inside glass, it requires more disassembly, but we would strongly suggest doing it (we did), while it is all opened. To our surprise the glass arrived by Fed Ex within 24 hours of ordering and now our Whirlpool is gleaming like new again. The cost of this product with shipping/handling by PartsSelect was much lower than ordering it from the other "original" source. Thank you! Sincerely Fred T.

Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

Tried to do it myself and broke the left trim piece. Use two people!

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Safety first always shut breaker off at box.
I unplugged stove, disconnected wires keeping in mind the color placement. Unscrewed one ground screw and removed terminal block. Attached new block with ground screw, replaced wires in correct order, re-attached plug. Then reattached safety cover. Pretty simple for d.i.y.

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

found the part here, once received, PULL Plug to stove. Removed 8 screws on back panel to remove two female electrical connections on element. Removed two screws from oven ceiling and two screws from back. Removed bad element, slid in new element, reinstalled holding screws for element, done inside oven. Connected female connections on each end of element, replaced back and 8 screws. plugged stove back in and tested Broil eelement, worked great. Wes

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BTW - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.

To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.

open oven door and removed 2 screws securing top,removed 4 screws securing elements and transferred elements to new cooktop.reinstalled screws and resecured new cooktop.$900 RANGE FOR $230 THANKS

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it

I cut the ends of the cord and went with direct wire (no round eye clip) to the back side of the terminal block and tightened firmly. It took about 20 Minutes.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.