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Ice Would Not Work - But Water Disp Did
Shut off water/power - pulled tray -loosened two screws holding ice maker - lifted it up and off - unhooked power connection installed new maker in reverse of above - power supply line was much to long but just pushed it under the ice tray ( away from the maker ) prior to ordering looked at comments from others regarding installation
Removed the cover inside the freezer. Found out that the motor/fan was not working. Ordered through PartSelect. Got the parts in 3 days. Installed it for less than 30 minutes. Very easy. It saved me hundreds of dollars. We considered buying a new fridge but not anymore. , it only cost me $70 including shipment charges. (Make sure you unplug the appliance first before opening the cover. Remember safety first.)
Our Ice Maker drove us nuts with noise from cubes getting stuck.
I purchased the replacement part (no instructions sheet) from another company, not this one, that cost 2X's a much as this company. So I sent it back and ordered from this company. Got it faster then the post office sends us the stamps we order by internet and this ice maker had instructions. Our's is a side by side refrig, so working space is limited but do-able. The old ice maker has made a clicking noise for years while trying to push the cubes out of the tray. They would get stuck and refreeze, sticking half way out of the tray. I loosened the 2 screws with a socket driver (which are difficult to see), raised the unit up and off the screws. Unplugged the power & out it came. Removed the bracket on the side as instructed to attach to the new ice maker and in the trash the ol' ice maker went. Set the new ice maker on the screws, plugged in the power, tightened the screws and walla. A quiet ice maker. In fact, it would startle us the first day as we didn't hear the clicking noise indicating it was stuck. All of a sudden the cubes just dropped into the container. Alright! Don't know why I didn't do this years ago.
Once I recieved the new filter, I enthusiastically opened the box, removed the filter from it's packaging and set it aside for quick access. I opened the refrigerator door, pushed the release button on the old filter and pulled it out. I then tossed the old filter in the trash. Once that was done, I removed the 2 rubber caps covering the inlet and outlets on the new filter. Then, with ace precision, I guided the new filter back into the slot until it clicked. I ran the water for 3 minutes as the instructions suggested, then, had a glass of water. Mission accomplished and it went off without a single hitch!
I want to first say that before I ordered this part from "Part Select" I first went and talked with a local appliance repair shop. They quoted me a $120 charge to come out and check the problem. Then $30 and hour service fee, plus parts. He provided me a quote of about $250 for the job. I found this part easily on the web site $77. It was very easy to instal. The only problem I had was the fact that in the side by side it was very difficult for me to get two hands inside the freezer to install it. (I have wide shoulders). Two screws loosened, no need to remove them. Just life the entire unit straight up. Unplug wire harness. Then just reverse order. Could not be easier. If you can change a light bulb you can do this.
Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.
Water actuator had broke off and water leaked from dispenser
The hardest part was figuring out how the front plate comes off. The tray will come forward when pried with a screwdriver. Then the top will come off but you will have to leave on due to attached wires. After that it was a piece of cake. Unscrew screws (6), remove small plates holding arm in place, remove arm, replace with new actuator, and close things up. As far as the valve, just take your time and, if needed, cut off pointed ends of tubings and push into new valve. Unplug color coded plugs and plug into new valve. Reattach valve to fridge and your done. We started everything up before attaching backing to make sure there were no leaks.
It's a good idea to unplug the fridge before you start. There are lots of wires and circuit boards in the area where you will be working.
To remove the in door water / Ice dispenser cover, remove drip tray, remove a couple of screws at the bottom and slide the cover up to release the tabs. There are a few scews holding the mechanism housing, remove them and gently pull the housing forward. You should be able to see the top iof the actuator. The actuator is held in place by 2 small metal plates, each with two small screws. Note the location of the return spring on the actuator arm! You will need to orient it the same way on the new actuator arm. Remove the screws and plates and lift out the broken actuator.
Put the new actuator in place and orient the spring as before. Replace the plates and screws and put everything back together.
If you have big hands, everything is a bit tight so, a small magnetized philips screwdriver or a screwholding screwdriver will make for easy work. I used a little scotch tape to hold the screw to the screw driver and it worked but, it took a few tries. Good Luck!
Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.
The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!
It was fairly easy. Only had to remove the back cardboard. Remove 3 screws and the power plug. Replacing the screws took a little time the motor mount didn't seem to be tapped exactly for the screws supplied and it was in a tight area. Its working great now.
Freezer was cold but the fridge was warm. Back panel of fridge was building up frost
First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .
The process: Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.
The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.