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Water filter needed replacement
Once I recieved the new filter, I enthusiastically opened the box, removed the filter from it's packaging and set it aside for quick access. I opened the refrigerator door, pushed the release button on the old filter and pulled it out. I then tossed the old filter in the trash. Once that was done, I removed the 2 rubber caps covering the inlet and outlets on the new filter. Then, with ace precision, I guided the new filter back into the slot until it clicked. I ran the water for 3 minutes as the instructions suggested, then, had a glass of water. Mission accomplished and it went off without a single hitch!
Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.
The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!
Refrigerator was trying to cycle compressor on, but each time the compressor started, it would stop due to the thermo breaker would open. The fans continued to run, so I figured it was starter relay.
Moved the refrig. out, removed the four screws that held the lower access panel in place. Disconnected the power cord. Removed the retainer clip wire and pulled the relays from the compressor socket. Separated the relays and installed the secondary relay on the new starter relay. Reinstalled the starter relay assembly into the compressor socket. Plugged the power cord in and listened for the compressor to cycle on. It cycled on and continued to run. Turned the power off and reinstalled the retainer clip wire. Reinstalled the access panel and plugged the power back in and left the refrig. run overnight. Checked temperature and also started the ice maker. Everything was normal by morning.
It was fairly easy. Only had to remove the back cardboard. Remove 3 screws and the power plug. Replacing the screws took a little time the motor mount didn't seem to be tapped exactly for the screws supplied and it was in a tight area. Its working great now.
Freezer was cold but the fridge was warm. Back panel of fridge was building up frost
First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .
The process: Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.
The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.
Pull refrigerator away from wall, being careful not to kink or break water line to ice maker, unplug refrigerator. Using 1/4" nutdriver, remove cardboard lower rear panel, bottom lifts out. Fan and motor are now directly in front of you, grasp the moter to stablize it, and using your other hand, pull fan hub from motor shaft. Be sure motor shaft is clean before reinstalling new fan blade, press new bladr onto motor shaft, until center of blade is centered on outlet side of fan housing. spin blade by hand to insure clearance. Plug refrigerator in and observe operation of fan, refrigerator needs to be calling for cooling for this fan to operate. Reinstall cardboard panel and move refrigerator back into position.
evaporator coil would freeze up solid. no air flow through coil; no cooling.
-unplug power cord.(safety first! -Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective. -use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up. -unclip thermostat from coil. -cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat. -clip on new defrost thermostat. -connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included) -replace coil cover. -plug power cord back in.
The door had a loud popping noise everytime you opened it.
The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.
take out screws front control panel ,then screws on left panel holding control unit. had to clean up plastic she got a little toasty. unhooked control unit replaced with new and reassembled. The real story is in your excellent web site easy to find exactly what I need and with prompt shipping, I was back in service quicker than having someone come out and repair.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.
After earlier determing that the starter switch was at fault, I removed the cardboard lower back panel, shut off water to the ice maker, removed water line. The plug to the compressor containing the switch and capacitor was held on by a spring clip, removed clip pulled wires from old switch (Here needle nose pliars are handy as the spade clips on the 2 wires have their own locking clips) replaced switch and all wiring, tested unit and problem solved.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.