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Water leak under Unit
Remove Base Access Panel; Removed Valve Mounting Bracket & Valve; Disconnected Wire Connector; Disconnected Supply Line & distribution Hose; Reversed the Process. Piece of Cake; Part was O.E.M.Component Exact Fit; Took Longer to Write this than it took for Fix. Thanks I Will Be Back for other Parts.!
unscrewed dishwasher from cabinet, then I flipped dishwasher on it's side. loosen pump motor bracket arm on the end of the motor. loosen pump motor to pump conecter hose clamp and then unscrewed pump motor connector from dishwasher. To install I did the reverse. very easy.
Easy repair-removed hex nuts and and screws to pop out old part and replace with new one. New part works better than the original! 1st replacement part arrived with a broken piece, a quick, courteous phone call got a replacement sent out. It took a 2nd phone call to obtain the refund, but the customer care reps are efficient and friendly. I would order from them again for positive service reasons alone.
Old lower dish rack had rusted in places due to some of the protective coating wearing off.
It is extremely easy. Just take out the old lower rack and slide in the new rack. Remove the silverware holder from the old rack and insert it into the new rack.
1. Turn off water supply. 2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the dishwasher. 3. Remove hose to supply valve. 4. Take electrical plug off old valve. 5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket. 6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher. 7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose. 8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip. 9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this time. 10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick plate.
Removed the unit from under counter and placed it with the door side down. Removed clamps/bands from the outlets on the sump and removed screws that attached sump to dishwasher tub. Reversed the process with the new sump and positioned the dishwasher unt=der the cabinet. Next step was to remove the arm and cover parts to the sump, then removed the old upper neck portion that stuck to a strainer. Then aligned the strainer to connect to the small neck of the sump and replaced items in the order from which they were removed.
1. Troubleshoot: Unplug, check power at outlet (OK), disassemble front door (phillips screws) from inside, remove safety switch cover to check operation (OK), remove metal shield over ckt board. Noticed burned and separated transformer leads. No repair possible, ordered new board(s), arrived promptly. 2. Replace: Piece of cake--remember to check for jumpers, had to remove one from old board and put it on the new one.
This was simple. I took the door apart with a portable screw driver. Then I detached the wires and unscrewed the old module and replaced it. I then put the door back together, loaded the dishwasher and it cleaned my dishes. Even for this `old dog' it was easy.