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GHDA356N00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the GHDA356N00SS
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upper basket, need the brackets replaced. its kept slipping off
taking off the little front brackets, was a little difficult. I had to have my husband do it, but it was fine and it works great now,
Parts Used:
Upper Roller and Axle - Kit of 4
  • randi from knoxville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Rear wheels would not clip to the dish rack due to usage and age.
Place the axle inside the wheel. Mount the wheel to the bottom of the dish rack and snap the axle to secure the wheel to the dish rack. Total project time less than 5 min. Video to replace wheel and axle was very helpful for those who are not mechanically inclined.
Parts Used:
Lower Front Dishrack Wheel
  • Bernard from South River, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Serious water leak into basement from around a kitchen sink pipe.
Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • William from Sterling, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Clips broke off for the upper dish rack
Remove rail end pieces installed the clods on the side rails and basket put end pieces back in place. Ready for washing dishes
Parts Used:
Upper Roller and Axle - Kit of 4 RACK SLIDE END CAP
  • Raymond from Ferris, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Just needed to replace lower rack
No repair; just replacement. Delivery was very fast.
Parts Used:
LOWER RACK
  • Jan from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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There was no problem, out of the box, into the bottom of the dishwasher.
No repairs needed, just replace the lower dishrack with 2 broken wheels with the new dishrack with the wheels already attached. Easy as A,BC or 1,2,3.
Parts Used:
LOWER RACK
  • Marlene from Canyon Lake, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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One of the wheels and hangers went missing.
Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.
Parts Used:
Lower Rack Wheel Kit - 8 Pack
  • Sally from Wauconda, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the GHDA356N00SS
526 - 532 of 532