GFS185/MN10 Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair was easy, I removed the cover on the top front of the fresh food compartment. It housed the defrost timer which was easy to identify and replace. Just removed a screw, unplugged the wires and replaced with the new part. Unfortunately, that wasn't the only problem. I also had to replace the defrost element that the timer sent power to. While I was at it, I replaced the defroster thermostat. The entire repair took under an hour, diagnosing the problem took the most time and effort.

After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.

removed shims on screws holding motor together, enlarged hole in mounting bracket so motor screws could also go through mounting brackets.

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

Followed instructions from ideoo

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.

When we got the part, we read the instructions, which were easy and very clear step by step. Taking the old part off took most of the time, it was attached a little differently than was described in the video and the instructions for the part. Once we detached that, the replacement part went in very easily and quickly. It took a short while for the cycle to start, we were actually a little worried that it wasn't going to work. Then it started cycling. After the first day the freezer had started icing up, we took a blow dryer and melted it and waited. It hasn't started freezing up again. The refrigerator is keeping the proper temperature and the freezer is also working properly, it's been a week. We seem to be obsessed with going out and checking to see if it's working but I think it's a success. Doing this ourselves only cost $26.00. A huge savings if we had hired someone else to repair it for us. We will definitely choose this option with any other appliance that needs repair. It was easy and simple to find the correct part thanks to the website. And the video tutorial was very informative and helpful.

After the Radiant Flame Sensor was installed, the problem remained. An appliance repair person then replaced both coils, and that fixed the problem.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

very easy