GFG471LVQ1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

Replaced igniter

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

I was able to perform this repair without removing the oven door. Removed cooking racks (2) Removed oven bottom (2 screws), removed flame spreader (2 screws). removed igniter (2 screws - used a 5/16 hex socket wrench). On this model range the lower screw on the igniter is on an angle (about 45 degrees) and very close to the heat reflector pan; patience and perseverance was required to remove it. - do not know if there is a special tool that would help making removal of this screw easier. If it wasn't for this one screw, the repair should take about 15-20 minutes. Replacement of the igniter solved the ignition problem.

switched out latch asy,rear

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

This is a very simple repair. 1st shut off your gas. Disconnect your gas line from the gas shut off value to the Gas Safety Value(GSV/R)/Regulator. Disconnect the other 2 lines attached to the GSV/R. Remove the 4 mounting screws holding the GSV/V. Wiggle the GSV/R from its location. Carefully remove the 3 wires connected to the GSV/R. Install your new GSV/R in reverse order applying sealant to the threaded joints. test for leaks.............. your done!!!

ordered new front and replaced

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed bottom panel. Unscrewed igniter. Replaced igniter. Reinstalled panel. Started oven before replacing panel. Easy install.

On the back of the range was a little plastic bag with the range document. In this document was instructions on how to check out the electronic controls, a drawing of the electrical wiring and a digram of the gas line part of the range. First I did the electronic part and it check fine. Following that the instruction was to check out the solenoid coils for the bake and broil valve. I believe the wires were blue, red and orange(it tells on the wiring diagram). It called for 216 ohms on each coil. When I unpluged the plug from the circuit board on the upper right backside of control panel I checked the resistance for the two coils. One side had 198 ohms and the other coil had 0 ohms. The instruction said that if either coil didn't measure 216 ohms or close to that value the valve would not work. So, I wrote down the Model number. Next I checked the gas valve for numbers, wrote down all that was on the valve because I didn't know which one was the part number for the valve. Went on line to the Whirlpool site, once in the Whirlpool site I found out they have a diagram of parts for different appliances, pulled up the model I was looking for, found the valve( under the valve part, the number was different than the one I had, but the information said it would fit the model of appliance I have) order the part. In a few days the part arrived. I turn the gas off, unplugged the electric. I removed the gas lines, had just a bit of a problem with the short gas line going to the burner for the oven, when the line was out I unplugged the control wires. Nake sure you write down how thw wires are on the valve before unplugging. There is an adaptor on the valve to the main gas line. You need to take this off and put on the new valve. This is where you need the pipe cement. Stay back from the end of the adaptor that goes into the valve one or two threads with the pipe cement. you do not want to get any inside of the valve. Put the adaptor on, tighten, plug in the control wires, replace the valve on the stove, connect the gas lines, put all the gas lines on before you tighten them. Turn on the gas. Check lines with soapy water for gas leaks. Plug in the electric, check it out. Don't forget to put the instruction back in their little plastic package and I also put a copy of the order I had for the new valve just in case I need it in the furture.