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Diswasher not drying dishes
Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.
Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.
1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel 2. Open dishwasher door 3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. 4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch. 5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside. 6. Remove old door latch. 7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in. 8. Plug wire harness into new door latch. 9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position. 10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly. 11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel. The dishwasher should now function properly.
this was ordered 4-9-21 and I have yet to receive it. Its difficult to explain the installation when you haven't received the main part. I paid for this but you have not shipped it. Very poor customer service.
The detergent tray wouldn't open during wash cycle
1. Pull out dishwasher (not all the way) 2. Open the door. 3. Remove the white rope holding the door hinge (both sides) 4. Remove the door by pulling up when the door is open about 4-8 inches. 5. Lay the door on the floor ( put something under the door so not to scratch the front. 6. Remove the small bolt at the bottom of the door (both sides). 7. Slide the hinge back, up, then out. 8. Where the hinges were are another set of bolts, remove those (both sides) 9. Grab the top part of the door (the part with the buttons) and slide apart. 10. Remove the styrofoam carefully. 11. Disconnect the wiring harness. 12. Remove the 6 screws holding the Despenser tray in place. 13. Put in new Despenser tray and put everything back together.
Water leak, no power,shorted control motherboard, diverter passive main assembly rubber hose had hole in it.
repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.
Dishwasher was randomly beeping when not in use. Then eventually the display wouldn’t light up.
I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE
The service rack vinyl coating had worn off on the rails on the bottom resulting in the metal being exposed and rusted.
Could not do the repair. The incorrect service rack was shipped. It was a different model than what was ordered. It was a different size and would not fit. Had to ship it back at my own expense. Service rack was $77.03 and that has been reimbursed. The return shipping cost to me was $43.75. That expense still has not been reimbursed. I do not want to risk ordering another service rack and risk having to go through the same type of service again.
Sprayer arms didn't operate and dishes were not cleaned
We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.
User interface board went dead. No display. Control board LED solid no flashing. Output voltage to UI Normal.
Standard repair process to replace UI. The piece worth noting is the strange behavior on initial install. After setting the jumpers to the correct pins for my model based on the instructions, the board would initially not respond. It was only after i change the jumpers to a setting for another model and put power on the board that i got a response. I then set the jumpers back to the pins for my model that the board began to respond normally. Its been fine since.
