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Wife said Dishes were not Drying and leaving Spots !
I tested Heating Element with Ohm Meter-Direct Short (if open it would have been bad and I would need to replace the element. Per the Website Troubleshooting for GE dishwasher, it said Heating Element (65%), Float Switch (32%), or Computer Board (only 3% Chance of it being board). So I ordered Float Switch. Later I noticed that the dishwasher would not change wash cycles from Heavy, Normal or Light. So I turned the Circuit Breaker on and off. This fixed the Wash Cycle. When the Float Switch Came in, I installed it in a few minutes watching the video on the GE Troubleshooting Page. Later when it was running I checked the operation and when I opened the door, the wife says seeing the steaming water, You fixed it, the Water is Hot now ! It was all about Hot Water, not the Heating Element at all ! And I think everything was fixed when I flipped the Circuit Breaker on and off and re-set the computer board. I think replacing the Float Switch was good maintenance, cause it was really dirty and needed to be replaced soon anyway. And it may have avoided my wife's next misdiagnosis with our dishwasher. This was 2 weeks ago, and all is well. Sincerely, Scott
1. Take a picture of the old rack in the dishwasher! Just in case! 2. Remove rail channel end caps and place them on the tabletop on the correct side to make sure you put them back on the correct side. 3. Remove old rack. 4. Carefully snap off the water sprinkling unit. (carefully push down tabs so they don't break). 5. Using your picture as a reference (!) snap the water sprinkling unit on the new rack (it's easy). 6. Put the new rack back onto the rail channel and replace the end caps.
Done! Very easy installation ! Rack was not nearly as expensive as I anticipated and was delivered quickly. Note: You get the rack only. All ot the other parts are from the old unit.
Simple answer- do not try to do this. GE makes you replace the entire door to replace this $3 part or call them and pay $100s to fix it. We decided to replace the entire dishwasher after we went through disassembly (there are no instructions on this) only to find out we could not fix without a brand new door.
-Disabled power. -1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate. -Unplug wires harness to door -Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches -uncouple spring pulley from door hinges. -Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove -Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door) -remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door. -Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal). -Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order. Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate. -Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump. He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump. I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter. After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it. It went very well.
The dishwasher was filling normally, but was not heating the wash water nor heating the dishes for the final dry. Dishes were not being properly cleaned and were not at all dry after the cycle.
I replaced the flood switch following instructions shown in readily available YouTube videos. In short, you remove the coarse and fine filters, then take out the bracket holding in the flood switch and finally the switch itself. After replacing the switch, the dishwasher works normally again.
The dishwasher rack was supposed to come with wheels it did not but I was able to use the existing wheels from the lower rack and snap them on was pretty easy
The pump went out after a few months of very loud noise during the drain cycle and then one day no drain or noise. A bit of research shows that this pump goes out frequently on this model so I ordered a new pump after inspecting the old pump for a clog or snag on the rotors.
The Install: After removing the dishwasher from it's installed location and turning it on it's side (unplug water and electric of course), I was able to remove the pump from the two lines that connected it to the dishwasher and the drain line. I also had to unplug the pump from an electric connection to the dishwasher. Swapping out the new pump was the same but in reverse. Not a hard install, only simple tools required.
One note, my electric connection to the dish washer was different on this model pump since they changed the original part but there is an adapter included with this part so make sure it is in the box and fits before beginning.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
