The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!
It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.
Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.
the magnetic door plunger fell on the floor, would not stay in place and did not hold the door closed. Received a new on, put it in place. works just like it is supposed to. took all of 2 seconds. great service from Partselect. got the new part in less than a week.
ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!
Cold water inlet valve was leaking where solenoid attaches to valve body.
Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :) Disconnect power & water Remove top panel, two screws at back Remove two screws holding valve to washer body Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes Remove tubes by twisting and pulling Reverse process to install new valve.
I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
Noticed small tear in hose bellows and leak during reassembly
I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.
Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.
5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).
