My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate (manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite works. Walla! It did. Thanks!
Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th
Both light bulbs had been replaced, but lights did not turn on.
I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.
Broke the arm off the food compartment rocker switch
After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.
Discovered that the fan in the freezer was not working properly. Removed the ice maker, paneling, wire harness and inserted new motor. Worked immediately and began circulating the cold air into the refrigerator.
the fride section was not geeting cold the Fan was not turnin on
first remove ice maker 1-screw on the bottom all the way out and two screws on the top half way out slide up and out and unplug wiring as you remove then remove back panel unplug ground wire remove screws that hold fan assembly unplug wiring remove pressed on fan blade put new motor in reasemble and it was good to go
Hinge bracket between refrig and bottom freezer had broken. This is the part which keeps the door from opening too far.
After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.
I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.
I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.
I unplugged the unit Frist. Then I removed the grill covering the compressor and fan from the back. I then located the rear wheel and pin. I bent down the retaining tab and removed the pin and wheel. I installed new wheel and pin and bent retaining tab back to origional location. Replaced grill and checked unit for proper operation.
