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refrigerator door would not close
1. turn off the refrigerator using the inside temp dial 2. take all food out of the refrigerator door 3. pull up the gasket along the door frame and loosen all the screws starting with the bottom and the sides 4. loosen the screws underneath the gasket on the top of the door (be ready to lower the door frame when you loosen the last screw!) 5. pull the old gasket off the door frame 6. put the door frame on the floor insulation side up 7. lay the new gasket out on the floor and use a blow dryer to heat the new gasket to make it flexible 8. put the new gasket on the frame by fitting the crease of the gasket over the edge of the frame making sure that the magnet side of the new gasket is facing the refrigerator when the frame is re-attached 9. apply RTV Silicone sealant along the entire lip of the gasket (on the insulation side of the frame) and press the gasket to the frame to form a bond ( I got a tube of RTV silicone at Wal-Mart in the automotive dept. near the motor oils) 10. wait 5-10 minutes to let the silicone bond to the frame 11. lift the frame up and re-attach to the door starting with the top middle screw first, the side middle screws next, the bottom middle screw last (you may want to get a second person to help hold the frame while you are attaching these initial screws) 12. go back and re-attach all remaining screws 13. close the refrigerator door and check for a good seal all along the gasket 14. your done!
Note: you may want to close the refrigerator door and block it with a chair to keep in some cold air after you remove the frame to install the new gasket
Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.
I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.
Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.
A screw driver was used to remove two screws that held the old fan in place the new fan ws installed exactly where the old one came out and presto the job was complete. No major deal.
Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.
I didn’t do the repair because the new motor had a female pigtail connector while the original motor has male connection. It came with wire clamps but didn’t want to cut wires to make repair. The pictures online show a male connection. Put the old motor back in and now it works fine.
defrost heater not working; defrost timer not rotating so coils ice up
Checked for continuity in heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer. Heater good; not sure about thermostat or timer. Replaced thermostat - no change. Replaced timer - rotating and heater working.
sometimes it would go into defrost and would not go back to cooling.
I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)
Freezer frosted up, refrigerator compartment heated up
I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.
Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.
