FEP310EN1 Roper Range - Instructions

I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

Very easy. A couple of screws and it was repaired. Parts select makes it easy and affordable to do minor repairs on my appliance. This is the second time we have used this company to repair our oven and so far all has gone very well.

Pulled the oven away from the wall, unplugged the oven. Unscrewed the back panel(2 screws)that covers the pigtail connection. Pulled the two wires that attached to the heating element. Inside the oven i removed the two screws holding the element in place and removed old element. Put the new element in place and returned screws. The two wires clipped effortlessly on the back, returned cover and screws and plugged the oven back in. Tested the oven and returned it to its position, reset the clock and done.

I took the burner out of the box and snapped it into the slots on the stove, turned on the stove and made dinner! By the way, I received it in 2 days, which was great. I will recommend your company to others and purchase all of my appliance replacement parts from Parts Select. The Norton Service Guarantee was awesome!! Thank you.

Unplug the oven, pull it out and empty the inside of the oven. The bottom heating element just unscrews from the back of the oven with two screws. Pull it out from the back of the oven and gently pull off the electrical connections. Reattach them to the new heating element, put it back into the oven and reattach the screws. Turn the oven on and check to make sure that the new heating element is working. Put everything back in the oven and you're done!

Removed burners and drip pans, replaced drip pans and re-installed burners. Simple....

I tested the element with a digital meter and found it was bad but I also followed your great tip to replace the receptacle which it really needed replaced also. Both parts now work and fit like new. Thanks

Was able to unplug the old burner and plug the new one in. Very easy.

Keep in mind that I am a 65 year old woman who has replaced bake elements on a much older range that was hard wired. I viewed the video so I knew what to expect. The job would have taken no more than 15 minutes if the retaining screws had not been stuck. After several doses of WD40, I finally managed to get them loose but only then after I had tried every screw driver in the house. I clamped the leads with vise grips to keep them from slipping back in the stove. Unplugging the old broken element and plugging in the new one took maybe a couple of minutes. The retaining screws went back in without a problem.

It was as simple as using a screwdrivers and replacing in existing slot. Thank you. It works great!

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

I removed the broken heating element while waiting for the new part to arrive and cleaned the oven. SO much easier without anything in the way. Once the part arrived and it was wonderfully packaged...Easy to open but very well protected, it was a snap to connect the 2 power wires and then screw in the 2 screws to secure the heating element. I was back to baking in less than 10 minutes.

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)