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FDB4050LHS0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the FDB4050LHS0
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Drain hose was missing
My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Drain Hose
  • John from Carthage, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
40 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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The drain pump was still working but was making a lot of noise
Putting the new pump in place to test it only took about five minutes. The lower, front, kick-plate panel was already off because I had removed it to figure out what was so loud. The steps after that were:

- Unplugged it and the disposal under the sink (just in case)
- Pulled the wires out of the bottom front of the drain pump
- With a Philips screw driver I loosened the front hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- With the pliers I pinched the back hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- Twisted the pump off of its soft plastic bracket

To put the new one on I reversed the process.

Once it was in place and before I put the panel back on, I plugged in the dishwasher and started a cycle.


The pump was quiet but the person who installed the dishwasher in the first place had the drain hose resting on a spring. When the pump ran it resonated through the spring making a pretty loud noise.

So I unplugged it again, disconnected the hose, fed it under the spring along the floor and then reconnected it. When I plugged it back in and tested it, things were much quieter.

With everything in place I put the panel back on and was finished.

Note: I have worked on dishwashers before and most of the time they have insulation behind the kick-plate panel to quiet them, but this one didn’t. I will probably add that some time later.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Michael from Clayton, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
39 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
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UO error - vent open
Pulled out the dishwasher - Located the vent assembly part - unpluged the wiring harness - installed new vent on top of washer plugged in the harness - disconnected the water supply as I had to adjust the rear left leg. Once done I reconnected the water supply and repositioned the dishwasher. WA-LA once installed problem solved.No more washing by hand.
Parts Used:
VENT ASMY, BLOWER BEZEL
  • charles from Buxton, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
37 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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plastic attachment for wheel to rack had dried and broken
removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!
Parts Used:
WHEEL & BUSHING ASS
  • Marla from Columbia, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
66 of 130 people found this instruction helpful.
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Heating element corroded, not heating
Removed bottom plate and heating element brass nuts. Disconnected heating element. Connected new one then replaced brass nuts. Put bottom plate back on. Very easy.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Heating Element Brass Nut
  • Denise from Burnt Hills, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
36 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
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Missing 2 rollers in lower basket
Alighned the bracket and pushed in.
Parts Used:
WHEEL & BUSHING ASS
  • Fred from Landis, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
63 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
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itmes breaking
One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.
Parts Used:
Spring Linkage WHEEL & BUSHING ASS
  • Ruth from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
63 of 125 people found this instruction helpful.
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spray arm fell off and melted on element
The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.
Parts Used:
Lower Spray Arm Support
  • Dale from Worley, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
34 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door would drop when opened....no tension on springs
First unplug the unit.

Second remove the kickplate. When you do this pay attention to the position of the insulation panel. It is confusing as to how it is put back together. Simple if you see how it comes apart.

Third unsrew the screws that hold dishwasher in palce under the counter top.

Genly pull the appliance from under the counter top. Understand the copper piping connected to the unit for water will only allow you to pull it out a few inches. Otherwise you would have to turn off and disconnect the water supply.

Reinstall the plastic clipsand springs. There are several holes in the frame of the dishwasher where the springs will attach. The further back you attach them, the more tension will be applied to the springs. This part of the operation is somewhat trying as you have limited visibility and access.

When springs and clips are installed, test door, slide unit back in place, reattach kickplate and insulation panel and then reattach to countertop.

All in all relatively simple and doable. If I had any problem it wasnot paying attention to how the insulation panel and kickplate came apart. No big deal.
Parts Used:
Door Spring Spring Linkage
  • Richard from Voluntown, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Found water leaking at bottom of door
1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Tub Gasket - Gray Dishwasher Bottom Door Gasket
  • Richard from Spring Hill, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
37 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
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old valve leaked
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve - 120V 60Hz
  • Ron from Billings, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
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leaking dishwasher even when not in use
Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve - 120V 60Hz
  • Dan from Las Cruces, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
25 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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Appliance read out "err", would not go on
It would sometimes work, which led me to believe it was a switch. Looked on line and found the mail switch to go on was in the latch. I took it apart, 6 screws, wiggled the switch and it went on. So I found the door switch to be bad. It was very simple to change the switch.
Parts Used:
Latch
  • Rick from Ozark, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
38 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
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No water to dish washer
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
Parts Used:
Float Switch
  • steve from virginia beach, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
35 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...
Parts Used:
Dishwasher Tub Gasket - Gray
  • John from Hummelstown, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the FDB4050LHS0
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