FDB2000RFS0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!

Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

Putting the new pump in place to test it only took about five minutes. The lower, front, kick-plate panel was already off because I had removed it to figure out what was so loud. The steps after that were:

- Unplugged it and the disposal under the sink (just in case)
- Pulled the wires out of the bottom front of the drain pump
- With a Philips screw driver I loosened the front hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- With the pliers I pinched the back hose clamp and pulled off the hose
- Twisted the pump off of its soft plastic bracket

To put the new one on I reversed the process.

Once it was in place and before I put the panel back on, I plugged in the dishwasher and started a cycle.


The pump was quiet but the person who installed the dishwasher in the first place had the drain hose resting on a spring. When the pump ran it resonated through the spring making a pretty loud noise.

So I unplugged it again, disconnected the hose, fed it under the spring along the floor and then reconnected it. When I plugged it back in and tested it, things were much quieter.

With everything in place I put the panel back on and was finished.

Note: I have worked on dishwashers before and most of the time they have insulation behind the kick-plate panel to quiet them, but this one didn’t. I will probably add that some time later.

removed the remnants of the old wheels and popped the new ones on....simple

Got to say, I was pretty amazed that I received my order the following day! You guys are wonderful!

Removed bottom plate and heating element brass nuts. Disconnected heating element. Connected new one then replaced brass nuts. Put bottom plate back on. Very easy.

This was right before T'Giving. Ordered the part Wed, and it arrived on Sat morning. I had read the other comments, so thanks to the person who said to make sure you snap the new one in place and check for a snug fit, the replacement was in and working in no time at all.

Alighned the bracket and pushed in.

One Roller detatched and hit the heat coil and melted. Both of the Spring Linkages borke. It's was quite obvious they were made not to last long. My Husband did the repairs. Thank you for asking.

The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.