FAV9800AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I opened the back of the washer, put the isolator in the hole it belongs in. I then inserted the motor pivot pins into the holes, and installed the motor bolt. Installed and tensioned the belt, tightened the motor bolt, and installed the back cover.

The top of the washer cabinet is held down by clips, which are easily pried off using a screwdriver. Next, simply unscrew the mounting screw off the left door lock switch, disconnect the electrical plug and swap the switch assembly. Reassembly and getting back into operation took less than five minutes once the part was received. Thanks, Parts Select!

went on line and looked up service manual for specific model of washer machine. after following detailed directions on how to get to the tub seal began the journey. once I came to removing the drum from the washer had to figure out a way to remove the nut from the drive shaft. there is a tool that can be purchased for 60, but knew there was another way. with some "out of the box" thinking took my 1.75" crescent wrench and held the nut. took a wrench with a skinny handle and placed it in the drive shaft. had to hit the handle a couple of times in order to break the nut free. recommend having two people. its very hard to hold the nut and try to break the nut free from the shaft by yourself.

Replaced the pump as per video.

I lifted the lid, removed the front cover and then twisted the pump in its mount. The pump came out of the mount and i put a pan under it. I unscrewed the two clamps then pulled one end out. Water spewed everywhere and it was a bit of a mess. I pulled out the two wiring harnesses and pulled out the pump. It had a key, a quarter and a nickel in it. I had not seen the key in years! I put the ground wire on the new pump and then the main wiring harness. I put on the power wires but later had to take it back off, so do this later. I then attached and tightened the clamps. I put the pump in the mounts and then twisted it into locked position. Then i put on the power line. I put the cover back on and tested it, all good. I saved a lot of money, about $300 between the initial service call and second trip to install it. I like this washer because it gives you problem codes. It is 14 years old, and this is its second breakdown. First time was the PC board under warranty. No problems for 12 years, which was caused by leaving coins and keys in the pockets of my clothes.

I paid a knowledgeable person $30.00 to make this repair for me.

Used a putty knife to unlatch the top of the washer (on the front of the washer, about 2" in from each side in that small gap near the top of the machine). Just pushed the putty knife in the gap to release the top. The top seemed to be hinged at the back, so I lifted the front up and while holding it, pulled out the damaged splash guard and inserted the new one. I ordered the part on a Wednesday night and received it Friday afternoon with standard shipping. If I ever need appliance parts again, I'll be checking here first.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

Purchased the pump from parts select. Maytag wanted 250.00 for the pump!. Followed previous instructions from this site and had no problems. Washer still does not fully drain. Believe the problem is the filter. Maytag either couldnot/would not tell me me where to replace the filter. There is a spare filter taped to the inside of the washer. Maybe it fits inside the tub, above the outlet tube leading to the pump. Will check and see at a later date, unless I see a response on the website. Thanks.

The repair was very easy after watching the video that was with the part. I will continue to use this site for other repairs that need to be done.