FAFS4473LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I released the door gasket and unscrewed the unit .Labeled the connections. then reconnected reattached, then put gasket back on. Worked like a charm!

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Your website made it very simple to identify the parts, and offered either a video or installation instructions. Couldn't have been easier. $550 was the quote I got to repair the washer, the parts with overnight shipping were $147 and my 30 minutes of time.

Remove 3 screws to remove door and remove all screws on back of door and had to pry up on the cover - new hinge assy set in ok and reasemble was easy but new hinge assy didn’t quite match mounting holes so a bit difficult to line back up

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Replaced the hinge. Took old one off, put new one on.
I did not need to use new screws so I have returned them for a refund. Old ones were just fine.
Customer service was excellent, providing a return label, letter and simple instructions for the refund. Waiting for it to credit on my account.

E47 error code means control board or door lock. From reading other stories, I decided to try the door lock first since it is much cheaper. Frigidaire tech support was no help at all.

First I removed the "wire" and spring that hold in the rubber seal at the door.

Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the door lock in place.

Removed the door lock, unplugged the 3 connections, plugged the connections into the new door lock, screwed it back in and replaced the rubber seal and wire that holds it in place.

Runs fine now.

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

First, I recommend you have a second pair of hands. The chrome door is quite heavy. Using Phillips screwdriver I removed the screws that attached the door to the frame. I had a helper hold the door while I removed the screws.
Once hinge screws were removed I put a towel down on a counter to keep the front of the door from getting marked up and proceeded to remove all of the screws around the back of the door so that I could lift the frame up enough to remove the broken hinge and insert the new hinge. It was a bit tricky to get the new hinge with bushings in place. I gently lifted the frame up with a flat head screw driver to widen the opening so I could get the bushings on the new hinge into position on the frame. Make sure they are properly inserted before you start tightening up screws.
Next, replaced all the screws on the frame, returned to the washing machine with helper who held the door up while I aligned the holes in the new hinge to the holes in the frame around the opening to the washer.
After everything was secured and tightened, to my surprise, the door latch did NOT line up with catch without lifting up about a 1/4" or a little more, on the bottom of the door. If someone slams the door without doing that you could break off part of the plastic latch or damage the catch inside the door frame.
I believe the original holes on the door frame were not drilled precisely during the manufacturing process and that is why the bottom bushing broke. We have always had to lift up a bit on the door to line up the latch with the catch. Eventually the strain on the bottom bushing caused it to break and then the door tilted down so you had to lift it up about 3/4 inch to latch it. I bought new hinge because if the top bushing broke the door could have come off.
Next time I buy a washing machine, I will pay more attention to the line up of the door latch with the door catch.
Flashlight helped me line up the holes.

I had called a repair man; and fortunately he never returned my call. After reading many of the reviews involved with the same problem, and wanting to use my washer, I decided it was easy enough to give it a try. And so it was. 2 screws in back removed the cover; and 2 screws in the front of the washer permitted the removal of the affected part. Removed three "plugs" from old; put them on the new part; replaced it back in the washer, and replaced the two front screws, which held it in place. Replaced top, securing with the two screws. And surprise - surprise -- the washing machine was working again! Your reviews were so helpful and encouraging --- that this really old lady decided to try it --- and like they all said "It was really easy to fix."

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .