F10C7FD7 LG Washer - Instructions

I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.

I did repaired while looking at video at your site .thanks to your team ..

I first thought there was a mechanical problem but after checking everything mechanical I discounted that idea ... I researched and found out from others with a similar problem that the Le code display was probably a sensor problem ... I ordered a replacement sensor ... With the new sensor available, I removed the access panel to the back of the machine (phillips head screw driver - 4 screws) ... Remove the exposed motor half (1 bolt - 17mm scocket) ... Loosen the motor stator that has the wired coils (10mm socket - 6 bolts) ... Hold motor unit to the side without disconnecting the wiring harness ... Disconnect the sensor wire connector and remove the old sensor ... Clip the new sensor in place (same position as the old one) and re-connect ... Reverse the assembly procedures ... This fixed the problem and the washing machine works like a new one ... The wife is HAPPY!

Disconnected power supply and water supply hoses. Laid machine on its back because this is a top load machine. Removed one bolt to take off stator then 6 bolts to remove rotor. Put it on side without taking off wire assembly. Snapped off rotor position sensor and installed new one. Put all back together and connected power supply and new stainless braided hoses. WORKS PERFECT. Thanks !

Disconnect elec., hot and cold water supply and drain hose. Lay washer on it's back. Removed nut from center housing. Removed screws from stater. Disconnected wires with flat screw driver at sensor and stater. Installes new sensor. Put everything back together. Washer works great. No LE code.

Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside.
Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses).
Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve.
To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

Took front of machine off to access 2 shocks, put back together then removed panel in back to access third shock, watched YouTube video first so things went smooth

bought a position sensor
top load machine when i tipped the machine over i found
the nut and washer on the floor .replaced the sensor and nut
took about half an hour

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.