EER3000L01TW General Electric Range - Instructions

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Scary when stove burner comes on by itself, was turning breaker off for safety! GE website not helpful at all. PartSelect website enabled diagnosis of problem and then provided easy source for replacement switch. PartSelect has schematics: all I had to do is unscrew the back of control panel, unscrew offending infinite switch, hook up replacement switch same way, put panel back and done. GE service call starts at $80 and then who knows what kinda $$$? Did repair myself: cost just $38. Yay!

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Removed the broken socket, and replaced with new one.

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

The repair took Less than 20 Mins. So easy anyone that is handy should be able to do this with ease. And PartSelect is great to order from Order was placed on a Weekend and order was at my home on Tues! Thats a one day shipping and it was a ground shipment!!! Great Job PartSelect!!!!!! Mark

Tried GE onoine parts department first and ordered the wrong part, then tried the customer hotline and they referred me to the right part but didn't explain that the design had been modified (the drawings had not been updated). I found an explanation on Part Select AND the parts were cheaper. Part Select sent the part, the necessary screw, and an appropriate instruction manual. Each support took less than a minute to screw in with a socket wrench.

After replacing the dual element and still having a problem with the range, I started troubleshooting the switch. Fortunately, our range has 2 dual burners, and the switches are the same, so I was able to move the switch and see the problem follow the switch (also, using a VOM, I could tell there was a short in the switch).
Since I'd already replaced the element, I only had to work on the controls, which are very easy to access.
I carefully documented all the connections (took a couple of pictures as well), and swapping out the switch took almost no time.
Lesson learned - follow the manufacturer's requirement to use only cookware with a flat bottom. This tea kettle only sat flat around the outside edge. That caused both the element and switch to blow. The "hot cooktop" light stayed on constantly, even after the element was replaced.

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

1. Pulled the stove out about 6-8 inches. 2. Opened oven door and removed 2 screws to free up stove top. 3. Lifted stove top to access another panel. 4. Removed about 6 screws allowing removal of sheet metal cover above Latch/lever mechanism. 5. Removed 2 screws at top center "boiler plate" to allow removal of Latch/Lever mechanism. 6. Slipped off electrical connector from microswitch mounted on Latch/Lever mechanism. 7. Then removed old mechanism 8. Set new mechanism in place, re-attaching electrical connector onto microswitch. 9. Then with my finger, I bored down a few inches through the insulation to make sure the base of the new Latch/Lever mechanism was in contact with the oven at the base of the insulation. 10. I replaced the 2 screws at the top center "boiler plate." 11. I reattached the sheet metal cover with 6 screws, making sure holes were lining up. 12. Finally, I lowered the stove top and reattached the remaining 2 screws that secure the stove top. It was all pretty easy, but I did not see a prop (like some models have) that would hold up the stove top while performing the unscrewing, screwing, removing, replacing, etc., so I used a piece of wood to rest the stove top on, and lifted it with my left hand while I did the "operation" with my right hand.

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.