EDW30 Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced all ordered parts.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

turn circuit breaker off

Remove 7 screws holding internal panel on door
pull panel up and off,be careful to clear door handle through slot on front. Put a weight of about 8 pounds on the door to hold it open

Remove six screws holding the circuit board, and the small black switch assembly and the pop the control board out. Swap electrical connections from old to new board. Reassemble in reverse
screws should be tightened with fingers on screwdriver only (metal in plastic)

Clean up and collect kiss from spouse

Rolled bottom rack out and lifted out. Replace lower rack by simply setting new rack on rollers and push inside dishwaher.
Top rack required removing plastic end clips on both sides of upper rack arms. Little bit struggle to remove but once out, old upper slide out of arms.
Installed new upper rack on arms and push retaining clips back in. Job complete.

removed old drawer-like basket, installed the new duplicate replacement part. Easiest "repair" I've ever done!

Repair is super easy and anyone can do it in no time!
At first my fear was that it was the pump, but after reading through the trouble shooting here it narrowed it down to the water inlet valve. The new valve even came with easy to read and understand instructions. I had it fixed in less time than it took my wife to make us lunch lol.

2 screws hold the mount bracket in place. Just remove the screws, remove the c-clip that holds the secondary/small water line on, pop the hose off then remove the main water inlet line [ its the bigger line with the brass fitting ] I only needed a pair of pliers for this. Reinstall the main water line into the new valve, but make sure you use pipe tape on the fitting or you'll have a water leak. Reinstall the secondary water line and reclip the c-clip using pliers to squeeze the clip. Hold the valve in place and reinstall the 2 mounting screws. That's it your done !!

This is the second time I've used partselect, and they are hands down the best !! Other sites would have you buying part after part until you happened to get lucky and get the right one. Not here, they help you figure out just what you need and nothing more.
Great people and fast service !!
Thank you once again.

The repairman offered to fix the dishwasher at a cost of about $200 or supply the water inlet valve for $85. Google led me to PartSelect.com where I easily found the correct part for $45. I received the part in 2 days by FedEx ground.
The hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. I took the dishwasher out a short distance to the patio where I replaced the water valve...about 10 minutes.
I then made a makeshift connection to an outdoor water hose and connected the electricity and ran the dishwasher while out on the patio through a short cycle to make sure of the repair and check for leaks.
Then reinstalled into the cabinet...total time about 2 hours.
Thank you PartSelect.com

Leaking at bottom of door edge - ordered new gaskets all around - no sense in replacing one at a time and paying extra shipping. Removed screws on the inside of the door panel and it lifted off easily. bottom corner of gasket was black and that is where some of the leaking was from. I replaced the door seal and ran the washer and it still leaked.... Pulled the washer out from the enclosure and it was quite wet back there - so I wanted to pull the washer to dry and clean things up - turned off power and water and remove screws at top edge that secure it to countertop. Insulation wrap was wet - Removed that and put it into the sun to dry - no sign of where water was leaking - reconnected water and power and ran a cycle with the washer pulled out - slowly leaking from top of washer where hose enters the top sprayer. Was easy to get to the sprayer - two little screws hold it in - removed the hose that feeds the sprayer and it was disintegrating - crumbly- I ordered the part and put it all back together and used a washer at the sprayer/hose junction to compress the fitting in hopes it would hold until the replacement came - it did. The replacement installed in 10 mins and did not need to disconect water or power. I would suggest replacing this hose at the same time you replace door seals based on condition of my hose.

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

Unplugged unit, unscrewed screws on top of dishwasher attached to countertop, undid water supply and drain hose that goes into tee with garbage disposal. Using crescent wrench turned front leveling screws up all the way and slid/rocked dishwasher out from under the counter - I had no problem leaving back leveling screws down. Turned dishwasher over on some towels (it WILL leak some water so spread out some towels!) so it was oriented like the directions that came with pump and motor. The directions were good, although color or a picture might have been more helpful. CHECK the new pump/ motor unit CAREFULLY for any loose debris from packing etc. I had a small piece of plastic that was in the top of the motor that goes in the dishwasher bottom that rattled around after I installed everything and put it back. I was able to get to it from the drain assembly in the tub but it made a heck of a racket at first. All in all, I had a great experience. I'm glad I ordered the pump and motor even though I only thought I needed the drain solenoid because when I took the old unit out, the prop on the old impeller was almost gone. Easy to order, good customer service (I called with a question and talked to a wonderful customer service representative!), good directions and easy to do. I'd say a 4 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Thanks PartSelect!

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.