ECBP82WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the control panel by removing 7 screws and replaced the light indicator and lens.

Fue muy facil desconectar primero la estufa despues quite los tornillos de la parte superior detras de la estufa, desconecte un cable del switch y lo conecte en el nuevo despues el siguiente hasta conectar todos los cables en el nuevo switch. Lo mejor es desconectar uno por uno para mo mesclar los cables , despues removi el switch de la estufa y puse el nuevo , puse las partes de regreso y listo conecte la estufa t revise si funcionava el quemador y listo sin ningun problema.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

First I searched for the part here and I had a slightly hard time finding the correct element on the site.
Then I read the comments of the others and the issues they faced.
I unplugged the range and pulled it out a bit from the wall. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place and put them where I would not lose them. Then I gently maneuved the element out and placed a clothespin on each of the wires to keep them from going back in and then disconnected the wires from the element using a pair of needlenose pliers.

At this point I had to gently bend the new element back into shape as it had been bent during shipping. Then I connected the wires and slid the element into place and installed the two screws.

Double checked to make sure everything was ok plugged in the range, said a quick prayer and set the temperature to 300. When it got to 300 the element shut off and I was happy that the element did not take any other parts with it.

First I removed the five screws that hold the
element in place and pulled the element out
about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet.
Then I connected the new element to the lead
wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.

I am a 62 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances However I didn't have the money for a repairman so I ordered the part and googled "Hiw to change a heating element in a GE range". All the instructions were there and now my oven is working perfectly. I even posted on Facebook for my female friends to encourage them to do repairs themselves. What a GREAT feeling.

Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

In this case I had to pull the range out to disconnect the power and also to remove the plate covering the electrical connectors. This was the only way to reconnect the elements terminals since the wires were too short to do it inside the oven. Undo the 2 screws holding the element in place from inside the oven to remove and install the new one before connecting the terminals from the back. Put back the rear cover and reconnect the power.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!

Replaced element control switches

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

Followed the directions!

Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.