DU4500V Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the top rack and unscrewed the six screws involved on the rack adjuster. (Take note on how you took the thumb adjuster on top off for easier reassembly) Replace assembly on rack and slide rack back into dish washer. Kudos to PartSelect for getting my part here in less than 24 hours on a normal delivery charge.

It was simple. My wife unscrewed the spray arm support nut and then, replaced it with the new parts. It was very simple. My wife was able to do it all by her self.

Attempted repair was quick & simple. Removed 7 torx screws, and then pulled the wax motor out of its holder. Pulled 2 wires off, and replaced old motor with new motor. Reattached wires, & reassembled.
Only problem was this did not fix the problem, so back to square one, but worth a shot.

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Read the Diagram on Parts Select Site and it only took me about 15 Minutes to disassamble and install the New Parts. Very Easy once I read the Schematic on the site.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Ordered new part from your site. The new basket arrived in just a few days, without the handle and cover for the small item section. Instructions with with new basket described how to remove the other parts from the old basket and install them on the new one. Everything worked out perfectly and my silverware stays put. I've very happy!!

Remove the motor and impeller housing assembly from the unit by disconnecting the motor wiring plug, green ground wire, removing the drain and transfer hose, wash arm assembly and three screws for the filter assembly. A plastic locking ring secures the housing assembly into the unit and is removed by rotating aft about an eighth turn. The impeller is removed from the motor shaft by unscrewing the left hand threads on the fan that attaches to the end of the impeller. The impeller has longitudinal splines that engage the motor shaft, so it has to be removed by pulling straight off of the motor shaft. My impeller was stuck on the motor shaft, so I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and sliced through the impeller to loosen it. Installed a new motor shaft oring, and then slid the new integrated seal/impeller onto the motor shaft and secured with the fan (remember left hand threads). Reassembled unit and no leaks...

The upper dish rack was in the way for my old body and short arms to reach the nut, so I had to pry the plastic bumpers off with a screw driver and remove the rack. From there you could almost do it with your eyes closed. Unscrew the old spray nut, screw in the new one and pop the spray arm on. Slide the dish rack wheels into the rail tracks push it closed, and insert the plastic bumpers. The only tricky part was the bumpers. You have to pry the forward-most piece of plastic away from the piece behind it. That pulls the holding edge out of the slot in the rail, and the bumper comes right out. Putting it back just takes a push from your thumb, and make sure the holding edge is back in the slot. Before I put the new nut on, I compared it to the removed one - it was obvious that the latching ring on the old one had been worn by the rotation of the Spray Arm, so the water pressure was all that it took to push it off.

The repair was very easy! I simply pulled out the old gasket from around the front part of the dishwasher. I cleaned the area with a damp rag from any residue that was left on. I bent the long gasket in half and and pushed it in starting at the center of the dishwasher and went down one side at a time until the whole gasket was in. I then ran a short cycle on the dishwasher to make sure it was properly in place and the problem was fixed. NO MORE WATER ON THE FLOOR! I was so very happy to know my problem was fixed and I didn't need to buy a new dishwasher! It's been running great! :) ~ Elizabeth ~

I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.

First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,

I had to take the complete builtin dishwasher out of the base cabinet in the kitchen.

turn off electricity - circuit box
turn of water supply - turncock under sink
remove kickplate - screw driver
disconnect electric wires - screw driver
disconnect water feed - 5/8 wrench
remove top screws at counter underside - screw driver
pull out dishwasher - hands and son
turn dishwasher upside down - hands and son
got some water on floor - towel to mop up
remove top shower hose ( a rigid pipe with a screw fitting at top and a neoprene coupler at bottom) - hands
The neoprene coupler is the part that failed, it had worn thin due to heavy water flow

reverse process - same tools

voila - no water leak

I replaced a Silverware basket at the same time, which took two mintues as I had to remove the handle from the old basket and press fit onto new one - hands

Parts Select had the parts I needed and delivered in less than 48 hours. That is great service.