DU1015XTXB3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

I removed the 10 screws that hold the front door panel on and then I removed the 6 screws that hold the dispenser in place, pried slightly on the 2 clamps that hold the dispenser in place, unplugged the wire to it and pulled it out.
Put the new one in and reversed the steps. Presto done!
Works great.
Thanks Parts Select.
PS
Kitchen Aide come up with a better design!

Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Make sure you order 2. One on each side

I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards

Needed to replace whole soap dispenser unit. Had to take front door apart cause the hex screws are on the inside. (10 Screws) then doors falls off onto floor if not careful. Spring loaded inner door wants to go up and outside door wants to fall off pulling on wiring. Unplug wiring to solinoid,(plug has locking release lever that needs to be pulled on) remove 6 hex screws, and dispenser comes out. Install new unit with 6 screws, plug in, and get help holding door parts together while installing the 10 screws. You are now finished. Pros are you get the complete unit, and not a bunch of parts. Cons are no diagrams or instructions/no new 6 hex head screws-reuse old ones. . . . . . Do not use soap powder/causes damage to latch parts/use only liquid soaps. . .

I watched the video and this was the easiest repair ever. Took longer to disconnect and reinstall than it did to change out the pump. Highly recommended watching the video

Shut the power to the dishwasher off. Pulled unit out from under the counter top and raised the left hand side up for easy access. Disconnected the wiring, undid the clips, turned counter clockwise and removed. Reversed the order for installation and Connected the power. Ran several cycles successfully. Problem fixed. Burnt out water pump. Good as new if not better so far. Easy item search, Fast Shipping, Quality Part, Fair Pricing. Thank You Partselect.com

This procedure assumes that the DW water connection and drain are flexible. Remove Phillips head screws (2) mounting top front of DW to underside of counter. Grasp door and gently coax DW outwards approximately 1 foot. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. On RHS check lower end of door spring and note in which notch the spring sits. On RHS, grasp white plastic connector ("hinge bushing", with spring looped around one end), stretch the spring while carefully lifting other end of connector up, out of slot in door hinge lever. Pry door hinge lever 1/8" away from DW body while sliding friction sleeve over its end. Work friction sleeve past hinge hook, past wider section, into narrower slot (about 2" from end of hinge hook). Raise door to closed position. Insert and hold lower (90 degree) end of spring into the same notch that it was originally in (mine was in the 5th from the front). Loop the door end of the spring into one end of the white plastic hinge bushing, then insert the other end of the bushing into the door hinge lever's hook while stretching the spring. It does not require much strength. CAUTION: If the lower end of the spring is not properly inserted and held in the notch, it can pop out and possibly injure you! Repeat for the LHS. Push the DW back in place, and reinstall the two mounting screws.