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The dryer tub started screeching and then dropped.
Removed the top of the dryer above the dryer door by pulling the pop out plastic holds. I then removed the dryer plug in at the top inside dryer that controls the start when dryer door is closed. I thenremoved the screws that are located at the back of the dryer tub where the bearing is located. I then replaced the support bearing. I just replaced every thing I took off in reverse.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Bearings Went and Idler Roller fell apart, not allowing drum to turn
unbolted one bolt and replaced old unit with new unit....took only a few minutes. Part was supposed to arrive in 3 days, but arrived next day....thanks very much!
The first part was the most difficult-opening the front of the dryer cabinet! Once open, the new belt was installed and then the new idler pulley was put in-place. The cabinet was closed-job done.
Removed small panel from back of Dryer,and removed Idler Pulley Assembly. From the front,lifted the top of Dryer to get access to the drum,disconnected the two wires for the Stop switch, removed the four screws, two on each side,and lowered down the front panel. Now,removed old belt and installed new, installed new Idler Pulley Assembly,aligned belt with Pulley.Reassembled the front and the top of the Dryer and I was done.The pulley was squeaking,but a shot of DW40 took care the problem. Thanks
Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.
Dryer would not cut off on auto dry and after replacing the thermostat the problem still existed. Most likely something wrong with the timer part of circuit.
I decided to replace the cycling thermostat. I disconnected power, used the putty knife to push back spring type retainers underneath the top and lifted up the front edge of the top and pushed it upward to rest on the back hinges. Next, I unscrewed two sheetmetal screws on the edges of the front panel. Then I supported the front panel upward while releasing the push type spring clamps before pulling it forward off the drum. I was able to swing the front panel open from the left side and gently open it while watching one wire that was connected to it from the right side. Then I was able to take the terminals off the thermostat noting which way they were connected. I unscrewed the two screws holding the thermostat to the fan housing and replaced it with a new one. I assembeled from the front panel bacwards. until the top was back down. Upon testing the unit I found out that the problem was not the cycling thermostat. I plan to investigate the timer circuit that the thermostat controls next. One can take out the thermostat and test it for cycling by removing it and checking terminals with ohmmeter x1 range and heating and cooling it with a hairdryer. Meter will read zero when thermostat is cold and closed. It will read infinity or high resistance when it is open and hot.
took front panel off, removed access panel in rear to disconnect the belt from motor. removed top panel (this is a stack unit) take plastic rivets loose from lint trap, remove lint trap tube, pull drum out after slightly pulling up to dislodge drum from bearing cradle, Remove bracket and bearing from back of unit, clean parts of old grease (be carefull not to loose small ball bearing on back) Reassemble parts using moderate amount of new grease, put parts back together in reverse order.
