DDT575SGF4BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I had to replace a docking port. Parts Select had the part, labeled as stainless, just as this survey indicates. Well folks, the part I received is 100% plastic. It it the correct part, just not stainless. Should it have been stainless due to a faulty plastic design? I don’t know.

I used Parts Select for the simple directions for installation. I was eventually linked to a YouTube video for a completely different docking port. Does my part slip on? Does it press in? I don’t know.

Needless to say, this has been a cheap but frustrating ordeal that is not yet over. Thanks for having the stainless, but really plastic, part and for having directions for some other part available.

Pulled, put on blocks, reconnected and ran to determine source.
Removed defective, cleaned/inspected port. Installed new part. Reinstall DW. Checked function /leak. Resolved.

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Performed all checks on youtube...water coming in, course and fine filter cleaned, drain pump working (heard it come on and no water present and cycle end). Swapped water inlet valve bc it was the cheapest poss fix $19. No luck. Ordered circulation pump and motherboard. Swapped pump, very easy with machine out and turned on its back. Temp reinstall and ops checked good. Contacted Partselect for return slip, emailed immediately and sent thru post office.

After replacing UI board, I replaced the mainboard. still did not solve the problem. The element tested good and I had removed the flood switch, rinsed and blew it out so it rattled but the damage was done. Replacing it made the dishwasher heat water and heated during dry cycle. Removed fine filter, removed course filter, removed two screws with nut driver, removed flood sensor and then reversed. A year or so ago, the dishwasher flooded for no apparent reason, wondering if that was the beginning end of the switch!

I followed the U tube instructions already put out part select.

Followed your instructions and was finished in 5 minutes.

Removed lower rack, slid in new Rack.

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.

De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.

I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.

Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.

Replaced all 3 spray arms in less than 10 minutes.The top one came in two pieces,the mounting bracket and the arm.Snap the bracket on the dishwasher first , then attach the arm to the bracket.

Slid out old part and slid in new part!!! Yup that easy!!!!

Part was incorrect Compare that to GE site saying number on both ports to different parts try to return was half the course of what I paid ridiculous So apparently I'm stuck with it Check GE site you'll see the port is different from what your sound but the numbers are exactly the same No clips to support the utensil tray