DCCB330GD0KC Dryer - Instructions

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

Downloaded a schematic of the dryer controls. Watched a UTUBE video of how to remove the front panel of a Maytag Performa dryer. It was pretty easy. Consulted your website and found out that bad coils are typical of the symptoms 46% of the time. I have bought parts from you before and happy with results.

easy as pie !

With the help of doityourself on the internet. great instructions

Thanks completely to the free videos on PartSelect.com. At first I thought it was the bearing at the rear of the drum. After ordering that part, I realized the noise was from the front of the dryer. I watch some more videos and decided it was the Front Drum Bearing and the 4 drum bearing slides. Parts were very inexpensive. The job took less than 15 minutes. Just had to remove the top dryer panel and pull out the front panel (with door) just a little to replace the front bearing. My dryer is now super quiet and like brand new again.

Took unit practically apart to remove old parts and install new part. Unit is like new.

My dryer started to squeak so I checked several websites to fix the problem and found that PartsSelect was the most informative. The website easily directed me to the problem and provided me with the most likely cause. The top two issues for squeaking were the front drum bearing and the front drum bearing white slide. I purchased both and upon receiving the parts I watched the installation video which was very informative. After watching the video I realized that I needed two white slides and only one is in each packet. I went back online ordered the second extra white slide, two dark slides and the felt. Both orders were delivered quickly. The repair could not have been easier. All that I needed was a screwdriver and less than 30 minutes to do the repair. I found that both the white slides and dark slides were completely destroyed so I would definitely recommend purchasing both anytime you purchase the drum bearing.

removed front cover and turned unit on, igniter would glow red but burner would not start. ordered m series new style coil kit and installed. turned unit on and igniter came on and burner started right away. all thanks to parts select trouble shooting guide.

Thanks to your great DYI video I completed the repair in less than 45 minutes very easy.

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

Snapped right on! No problem.

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

Replaced lower drum seal and upper (front) drum bearing

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.