DBXR453GT3WW Dryer - Instructions

I initially opened the front of the dryer and noticed that the drum slides that the drum rides on in the front of the dryer were excessively worn. I then removed the drum and noticed that the plastic bearing that supported the drum in the rear was cracked and the washer(?) appered to be disintigrating. I ordered and replaced the drum slides and rear bearing. The dryer was still making too much noise. I ran the motor with the drum removed and realized that they motor was the remaining source of the excessive noise. I then ordered and replaced the motor with a new one and this solved the problem. Total cost was around $140. Note that when ordering a new motor, the instructions on the web site indicate that you need to order the motor pulley if your existing motor has a pressed on pulley. The new motor was a kit that came with the pulley included, and therefore the additional part was not needed, and had to be returned. The instructional videos and parts schematics on the web site were very helpful.

After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

Pryed off the top with a flat head screwdriver and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel to the sides. Then lifted the front panel off of the bottom brackets. Belt fit perfectly and followed the provided instructions to loop it around the motor and pulley. PartSelect got the part to me within a couple of days and the repair was a snap.

I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 total). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. It was broken. I think it'll be fine though.

ordered part on line--received in mail 2 days later--
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done

how much easier can it get??????

Removed the top of dryer two screws behind door at top then removed top two screws top corner lift dryer tub put belt around the tub then looped belt around the pullies.

I removed the two screws that hold the front panel to the top panel. I removed two more screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. I separated the front panel from the side panels and removed the drum.

I could see on the front panel the drum slides were badly worn. One was gone.

The new parts installed easily using no tools at all. Everything snaps in place. The new foam gaskets press and stick to seal the duct work. The felt strip pressed into place.

I replace all the panels in reverse order and plug it in. It operates fine, but the motor is making the noise. I will look into replacing the motor next.

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

Removed top cover of dryer with screwdiver 2 screws, removed front cover 2 small bolts with 5/16 scoket. Removed coil brackets with shor screwdriver replace coils as ness. and put covers back on and works great!

Vinny

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.

The weight of the front section of the drum in the dryer rides on 4 slim pieces of plastic. remove the screws that hold down the top of the dryer are in the front door at the top at each corner. remove the top, then remove 2 screws that hold down the front of the control panel to the cabinet at the base. remove the 2 screws at the of the front corners of the cabinet to separate the front door section from the rest of the dryer.Watch out for the wires the connect the door to the rest of the dryer. if you replace the bearing at the back of the dryer you need to take two screws out at the base of the cabinet one from each corner to let the sides of the cabinet to spread out and let the drum pass though the front of the dryer cabinet. the belt has to come off the motor by lifting it up an sticking your hand in under the drum and working it off the end of the motor. replaced the parts ad the dryer works like new.

1 Unplug power cord. 2 Remove top and front panels. 3 Remove old bearing, slides and bulb. 4 Install new bearing slides and bulb. Reinstall front and top panels. 5 Restore power and test. Time to repair 25 minutes. Very satisfied with the parts and the time to receive them, very good parts service. Will definately use this service in the future and will highly recommend this company.

(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

Removed lower front panel and then front including door (need to remove the top to access screws.) Replaced both the ingiter and heat detector. The tricky part was getting access to the long tunnel-like bracket that houses the igniter. Washer and Dryer are in a tight cutout space in very small laundry room.