DBSR453GA2WW Dryer - Instructions

I removed the two screws at the front above the drum opening (with the dryer door open). The top panel then lifts off. I removed the screw at each side that holds the front panel to the side panels, tilted the front panel forward, which disengages the front of the drum from the front drum glide bearing. I then lifted the front panel slightly, unhooking the bottom of the panel from the dryer base, and swung the front panel aside. I removed the existing top drum bearing guide, which was disintegrated, and snapped in the new bearing guide, with the nylon slide strips installed in the bearing guide. Next pulled out the old felt strip, and pressed the new one in place. I then put the bottom of the front panel back into the bottom of the dryer front, and while lifting the drum to asure it fit over the bearing guide, pushed the front panel back to a vertical position to mate with the side panels. I then replaced the side panel screws, replaced the top, and replaced the front top panel screws.

Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com

Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.

Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Dear PartSelect.com,

My repair went off without a hitch.

2 screws removed to remove top.
4 screws removed from inside to remove front panel w/ door.
4 screws removed from top of control panel, loosed and popped top right off.
Flathead screwdriver to pop off old plastic panel.
Removed old wire chase (plastic, approx 3” long).
Removed built-up lint, wiped down area for new duct.
Snapped new duct on.
Dryer works like new!!
Took about 35 minutes, most of time spent cleaning up inside of dryer from lint due to broken duct.

One problem was that salesperson sold me on a new felt strip to go with new duct. That felt comes already installed on the new duct so I did not need it. Cost me a few extra dollars I did not need to spend.

Other than that, easy ordering, fast shipment, and parts are as close to original as possible.

Thanks for all your help!

It was actually my father, he doesn't use the internet. He thought that because the dyer got real hot and then shut off he thought the thermostat wasn't working and the high temp shutoff was okay. He went through the manual and found the part and took it out. He called the service number but they wanted $50 dollars plus shipping. I saw it was a Thermo-disc part so I tried the manufacture's website but I couldn't match the numbers on the back to their part numbers. I tried several other sites and your site was the cheapest. It was real easy to use the web site and diagrams to find the right schematic and part. I ordered it online and it was delivered in 2 days with the regular shipping. When he first put it in the dyer didn't turn on. He found no power coming out of the timer so he cleaned the contacts and it worked. Thanks for making the ordering so easy.

First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!

Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

First I found and watched three videos on how to open the dryer and replace the igniter.
Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown.
I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had them in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am.
I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.

First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

I pried out the remaining pieces of the handle out of the door with a screwdriver. When the new part arrived, I snapped it into place and it was done. It fit perfectly.

I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.