DBLR333GE2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Looked in inspection hole at the bottom right underside of dryer. Through small inspection hole saw now glowing. Figured igniter was bad. Removed front panel by extracting two screws on the left and right side of front panel at the top. Lift top slightly, pull front out and unplug wires and remove from brackets at the bottom. Inspected Front Drum Bearing which was cracked. Ordered new one. Inspected Drum Bearing Slides, ordered two new ones. To get to Igniter had to first shut of the gas supply at the gas flex before the dryer connection. Then used a 1" box/open ended wrench to disconnect gas pipe from the gas valve, bottom front right of dryer. Had to cut black electrical tape holding more than one wiring harness wires. Removed two bracket screws, bottom right front, disconnected wiring harnesses from gas valve, and had to bend straight a metal tab holding gas assembly to bottom bracket which is attached to the bottom of the dryer. Igniter is attached to the bottom side of the gas valve and burner assembly. Removed Igniter assembly and wiring harness (one screw). Reversed instructions to re-assemble. Note: gas pipe attached to the gas valve might come through the dryer from the back. Might need to pull dryer out and have someone else pull the gas flex and gas dryer pipe back to hook up the gas valve again.

The clothes would get caught where the drum slide should be (it was almost totally worn down) and would leave black marks. I watched Parts Select youtube video. Bought the parts needed from Parts Select. They arrived within a couple of days. I replaced the 2 drum slides and no more getting caught. Took about 20 minutes.

The Felt Drum Seal actually fell apart and got pulled into the area between the drum and the front drum bearing. I pulled out the seal, looked at ps.com's schematics, and ordered the drum seal and the 4 bearing slides. I figured I might as well replace the slides while the top and front of the dryer were off. Previous postings and the video were very helpful. I did take off the dryer door (remove 2 screws and loosen 2 screws to take it off) to make it easier to remove the dryer front. Do watch the wires to the door switch and the light: gently move the dryer front just far enough from the dryer to get behind it. Install felt seal and make sure it is completely in the guides with flat side against the dryer front. Install bearing slides exactly the same way as the old ones: they just clip into place. Have a brush or vacuum handy to clean the channel from the dryer lint trap. Mine was full of lint. You will have to reach in and raise the dryer drum slightly to put it back on top of the front bearing as you reinstall the dryer front. Very easy repair for anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability. I estimate I saved the cost of a $150 service call ($75 to show up and minimum 1-hour of labor at $75 in my area). Thanks parts.com!

Watched the video and found it to be a very simple and easy installation.

Pretty easy fix with the removal of 4 screws, disconnected front panel , disconnected wires on front panel, removed top panel, once all panels were removed pulled out drum, while removing belt, removed damaged rear drum bearing held in place by 3 screws replaced new rear drum bearing, Removed light bulb, popped out plastic front drum bearing replaced 4 new drum slides on new front bearing popped it back in place, removed old felt strip, replaced with new felt strip, put it all back together front panel first, removed four screws on control panel to make the top panel easier to replace, and fired it up, it was as quiet as new, great videos that made the job allot easier and saved a ton of money to boot. Thank you for your quick delivery time as well..

I removed the drum from the dryer (the instructional videos on this site showed me exactly what to expect) and it got easier from there. The old O-ring on the rear bearing had broken and the sleeve was moderately worn, but both were easily slipped off by hand and replaced. As for the front bearing, the new slide plates inserted onto the edge of the new bearing plate easily. The old front bearing was badly worn, and except for one, all of the slide plates were worn to nothing. This was apparently the cause of the terrible squeaking noise. After removing the light buld and applying a little pressure, the old bearing popped out and the new one replaced it just as easily. You must remember that there are 4 slide plates that mount to this bearing and they are SOLD SEPERATELY! You have to buy 2 black ones and 2 white ones and each is sold individually. Once replaced, the dryer worked good as new! While I had the dryer apart, I removed all of the built-up lint from the exhaust line and the interior of the unit with my hands and a shop-vac. My dryer now runs squeak free and my drying times have decreased substantially due to the cleanout of debris. I highly suggest you watch the instructional videos on this site, they are extremely accurate.

The old knob broke off & was no longer able to turn the pin to start the dryer. I simply slid the new knob onto the pin & it worked like new.

first, I watched the helpful videos. I then removed the screws that are located inside the door and screws from for top panel to remove front and top panel. When I opened the front panel I saw that the front drum bearing was half destroyed from the years of drum rubbing. I Replace front drum bearing and slides and now dryer sounds like a brand new quiet dryer.

First up, remove the two screws that hold the top cover on - you can see them when you open the front door. Once those are out, close the front door and pull off the top cover. Remove two more screws (one on each side) that hold the front panel in place, then undo the clips and move the front off to the side - you don't need to unplug the harness for the door, it's long enough to move out of the way. I had to remove the drum next - it's held in place by 3 Torx head screws on the rear wall of the drum. Once the screws are out, you can slide the drum forward and off the belt so you have enough room to replace the igniter. The ignitor is down below on the right side, held in place with one screw, under a gray ceramic piece that (I assume) directs the flame - that part is held in place with two screws. Once that is out, you can undo the 2-prong connector, and use a short Philips screwdriver to remove the igniter. Be careful installing the new one, as the ceramic tip is fragile. Reassembly wasn't too bad, but it really helped to have an extra pair of hands to start the screws that hold the drum in place on the rear bearing. Since everything was apart, I also replace the drum sliders - this particular dryer uses 4 of them, and it spins nice and quiet again!

The repair went just as the self help video showed on your web site. Since I was replacing front air duct assembly, and had unit disassembled I figured on replacing upper portion, bearing slides (as recommended) and lint basket. Now it as good as new. Thanks for the help!

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.