DBLR333GE0WW Dryer - Instructions

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

I took off the broken knob since it was already loose. Then I removed the new part from its wrapper and lined the bolt up the knob. Inserting and pushing until it felt like the knob had a firm grip the job was done.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

I have read other postings which describe most of the procedure very well, so I'm just going to add things that should be considered, which I have not read about here.
Removing the drum proved difficult due to the lack of room on the two sides.The vent blower motor bracket is at the front bottom of the dryer, and when the two screws on either the left or right side are removed, the dryer sides spread more easily and allow the drum to be removed or re-installed more easily.
Next, the rear drum bearing I bought has a rubber o-ring which holds it in place. There is a good chance this o-ring will be hard and brittle after years of service, and will crumble when removed, in order to replace the bearing. I had to run to the local hardware store to get a new o-ring, and could only find one that did was not rated for high heat usage. I presumed once the drum is re-installed that the bearing can't dislodge even with a missing o-ring. I think it just holds the bearing in place while removing and re-installing the drum, but I cannot be certain about this.So if you plan to replace the rear drum bearing, make sure to also order the o-ring that holds it in place. It is doubtful you can re-use the old one depending on the age of your dryer.
Replacing the old white belt tensioning pulley requires the removal and re-installation of a "nut" that has no threads. It is forced on and off and not simple to re-install. The removal was easy simply by using a wrench to "unscrew" it counterclockwise. But re-installing it is another matter. It requires force to get it back onto the shaft. I saw a tip to use a 7/16" socket placed over the nut and hit with a hammer while bracing the bracket from the other side. I did this by used a smaller tool, linesman's pliers, which provided the force needed. Install it about 1/4" past the end of the bracket shaft. Careful, that nut has sharp edges and I ended up bleeding from that process. Three hands would help: one to brace the bracket, one to hold the nut and socket in place, and one to hammer. So good luck with that. Probably there is a smarter way to do this.
If you replace the old white plastic belt tensioning pulley with a new yellow one, it is not simple to understand how to re-install the belt properly. The videos do not do the trick adequately. I did find one on youtube where they removed the dryer side in order to show the belt installation and I had an "aha moment". Since you cannot see the belt, the pulleys, the motor, or anything else during installation, it is not a simple thing to do. Here are my tips: Before re-installing the drum, move the belt tensioning pulley bracket to the right (when facing the dryer front) and you will see a little spot where the bracket will stay to the right when engaged in this spot. Engage the bracket and then proceed to re-install the drum. That way, when you reach under the drum to set the belt properly on the pulleys, you won't have to engage the tensioning bracket without being able to see. Once the belt is in place, carefully remove the bracket from the right holding spot and allow it to move back to the left operating position. I used two hands and don't think I could have done it with one. When the belts are new, they can be naturally twisted and you have to be careful to install the belt with no twist. I had to do it twice to get it right. If someone can take up the top belt slack for you, it's easy to feel the belt underneath the drum and get any twists out.
Next, i had a hard time inserting the drum back into the dryer and finding the hole where the bearing inserts. The problem is, if you are not careful, it's easy to move, bend, or break the heater wires which surround the hole you need to locate blindly and slip the drum bearing into. I did bend those wires, but luckily not break them. In hindsight, applying some masking tape to the rear inside panel of the dryer right at the top, left and right of the drum BEFORE removing the drum would have made it much easier estimating the proper drum height while maneuvering the bearing into the rear hole. Then remove the masking tape when done.
I ordered a new top plastic front bearing that supports the drum in the front. Good thing I did because mine was split about 5" where one set of the green and white sliders install. I had one white "plastic" insert visible. The other one plus the two green bearings were totally missing. No wonder it was squealing.
Finally, the hardest part for me was re-installing the top of the dryer! Take a good look before removing it so you can see exactly how the top fits to the dryer and how the parts need to be lined up first.
Thanks to PartSelect.com! Every part was correct and the installation videos gave me so much help. Also, parts arrived in two days, which surprised me. I will be ordering all parts here.

The PartSelect company's "how to" repair videos are OUTSTANDING. Thank you! The videos provided a comprehensive overview of what to expect in terms of clothes dryer disassembly, component replacement and reassembly. The videos were invaluable tutorials for prior-to-disassembly work.

I ordered all the following parts which I felt were likely excessively worn--white and green bearing slides (two of each required), rear drum bearing kit, drive belt, and idler pulley wheel--to address the noisiness issue.

For your consideration: Since our dryer is 12 years old and would be disassembled anyway, I decided to order a new dryer drum belt and idler pulley, to replace these two constant-use items as preventive maintenance.

Two notes.
One: When replacing the dryer drum bearing parts, you need a T25 torx bit to loosen and remove the three torx-head screws. But using my T25 torx bit-head-style screwdriver, it was impossible to loosen them. Fortunately, I had a T25 torx bit, which I could mount in a socket wrench, which DID allow me to loosen those three torx-head screws without damage/breakage. WHEW! Recommend you are similarly prepared!
Two: If you purchase the "Rear Drum Bearing Kit," it already comes with the the "Drum Bearing Sleeve" and "Retainer O-Ring" components I thought I would also need--no need to purchase separately. I returned those two items, unopened, for a refund.

All together, from dryer disassembly to, component replacement, to a thorough vacuuming/cleaning, to reassembly and an operational check, it took about four hours. The dryer is now nearly noiseless again! Success!

I consider myself reasonably good with tools and have a fair amount of electrical and mechanical skill. My wife assisted with extra hands a couple times, too, seriously reducing my frustration level. Depending on your abilities, you'll take more time or less time than the four hours it took me. I'm certain I saved at least a couple hundred dollars by doing this maintenance myself.

In summary, the PartSelect person taking my order was knowledgeable and professional, I received my parts two days after ordering, the parts worked perfectly, and the company refunded my two, unopened returned parts promptly. Overall, a terrific experience. I highly recommend them to any capable do-it-yourselfer.

Thanks, PartSelect!

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

First I laid the cabinet on its front so that it was easier to remove the back sheetmetal screws on the right hand side. I then opened up the right side of the cabinet and held it open with a 2X4. I was able to reach inside the cabinet and unplug the wiring. It was more difficult reaching the ground wire and removing the screw that it was attached to however i found that using a socket with an extension was the most effective. The cordset popped right out with the assistance of a flat head screwdriver. The cordset and ground wire were set in place and attached without trouble.
It was difficult trying to figure out how to open up the cabinet without instruction!!!

Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!