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Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
Dropped and broke the small bin in my refrigerator.
I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.
This model of refrigerator has a dual cooling system and it was the refer condenser fan that was making noise
You have to remove the shelves and drawer's along with the drawer mount. there is a wiring harness you need to unclip to remove the crisper electrical panel
There are six nuts to remove the lower panel at the back of the compartment where the lower drawer normally is. no need to completely remove the panel, you only need to get wiggle room to remove the fan at the base of the center panel.
There is a small triangular cover used to conceal the fan wiring harness on the right side of the center panel that you can use the putty knife to slip in on the center panel side to unclip and remove
Use the putty knife and slide it down both sides of the center panel that runs vertically to unclip it - at the base of this panel is where you'll find the condenser fan, you should be able to wiggle it out - there is a built in clip on the lower right side of the center panel that you can slip the wiring harness out of - for me this was the hardest part of the replacement as it was just awkward.
After it's removed slip in the new fan and seal and reassemble. I think the whole operation took maybe a half hour - 40 minutes. It's pretty easy all said and done.
Broken spring on bottom hinge of left door mullion.
Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.
I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Icemaker was dropping black particles that looked like dirt or mold. What they were was the corrosion of the metallic (pot metal or aluminum) ice form and small corroded particles falling on the ice. The ice form looked like it was coated with teflon or a paint. this form needs to be metal so heati
Replaced the 8 year old icemaker. Turned off power. Did not need to turnoff water supply. Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover. Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover. Disconnected both wire connectors. Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard. Installed new icemaker in reverse order.
1. Turned power off. 2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver). 3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate. 4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door. 5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door. 6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door. 7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door. 8. Turned power back on.